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Guide: Install macOS 11 (Big Sur) Without Cloning VM

DISCLAIMER: This was tested on a Ryzen CPU. Whilst it is highly likely that this solution will work on Intel machines, expect that it might not work. Also please know that Big Sur is still in beta and is not properly supported yet. It is slow, buggy, and stuff does not work! Install at your own risk for testing purposes only! I am not responsible for loss of data or hardware problems caused by following this guide.
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Introduction
I had posted about my success with installing Big Sur without cloning a virtual machine earlier today. I thought it may be beneficial to create a guide for those wishing to install Big Sur who have been putting it off due to the complexity of the original method. Thanks to the wizards working on Opencore, the installer now boots and it is now possible to either upgrade to Big Sur or make a clean install. I am aiming the content of this guide to someone who might be new to Opencore, but has made an Opencore Hackintosh before. If you have any issues with your install, please consult the Opencore troubleshooting guide before asking me. I am happy to help with unique issues related to Big Sur.
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My Hardware
This method should be compatible with any "hackintoshable" device. If you do run into hardware compatibility issues however, here are my hardware specifications.
​CPU: Ryzen 5 1500x
Motherboard: Asus Prime B350 Plus
Graphics: ASUS OC Radeon RX 5500XT 8GB
BIOS Version: 5407
LAN: Realtek PCIe LAN (Essentially the one that works with RTL8111.kext)
Bluetooth/WiFi: N/A
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What you will need
The biggest thing you are going to need is either a real Mac or a Hackintosh running Catalina. In order to build Opencore and the required kernel extensions, you will need the latest version of Xcode which only runs on Catalina. With that out of the way, here is a list of everything else you need.
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Guide
So! Once you have either a real Mac or Hackintosh running Catalina, have all the necessary files and applications, and enough time, you are ready to go! If you have already opened your Xcode installation before then skip this part of the guide. Otherwise, read on!
  1. Open Xcode.
  2. Agree to the terms and conditions.
  3. Let Xcode finish installing components.
  4. Then you can quit Xcode, that's all you need to do inside it!
Now you will need to compile the latest source version of Opencore, your required kernel extensions, and drivers. To do this we will need to use Xcode's build tools or OCBuilder. For those who want to just build everything with Xcode in the terminal, see the next part of this section. I only recommend you do this if you know exactly what you are doing as you may run into issues building certain extensions, packages, etc. You will get less bloat from it, but it will be much harder to do. For those wanting to go the easy route and use OCBuilder, keep reading!
With OCBuilder
  1. Open OCBuilder (It will throw a security error so just go into System Preferences > Security and click 'Open Anyway')
  2. On the drop down box where it says "Select Version", make sure Debug is selected.
  3. Click on the checkbox 'With Kexts?' to include the latest common kernel extensions.
  4. Underneath that, click on the 'Choose...' button. Here you will choose a directory to save the finished build to.
  5. Once that is finished, click build! It will take some time, be patient. If it looks like it is locked up it likely isn't, just give it 15-25 minutes. NOTE: The first time you build with OCBuilder it will need to install programs like NASM. When it does, it will prompt you to enter your administrator's password in order to install.
  6. Once the build is completed, navigate to the directory in which OCBuilder saved your build to and take out the 'EFI' folder. Put it somewhere easy to get to like the desktop. This will be the 'EFI' folder you use while following the Opencore guide.
With Xcode (Manual Method)
  1. Firstly, you will need to clone the necessary git repositories. They are linked below...
    1. Opencore - https://github.com/acidanthera/OpenCorePkg
    2. OCBinaryData (Drivers) - https://github.com/acidanthera/OcBinaryData
    3. Kexts - Use Goldfish64's Kext Repo to download the latest extensions
  2. Create a directory that you wish to download the repository too.
  3. Open terminal and navigate to that directory. Type into the terminal git clone 'REPO_LINK _HERE' to download the repository.
  4. You don't need to build anything from OCBinaryData. Just open it and take out the drivers you need.
  5. Navigate to your Opencore download and run build_oc.tool.
  6. Once completed, Opencore will be built to the 'Binaries' directory. Extract the 'DEBUG' zip and take out the EFI folder. This is the EFI you will use to complete the Opencore guide.
    1. NOTE - Opencore may have complaints, when building, about not having programs like NASM installed. You will have to install these dependencies. The build tool should notify you of what those dependencies are.
  7. If you run into any issues with this and can't solve it, use OCBuilder or another application that does all of the necessary tasks for you.
Now you will need to complete the Opencore guide as you would normally do with a Hackintosh install. The method is essentially the same as Catalina, but AMD users have an exception as noted below.
Lastly for this section, you will need to make a decision. Either you will do a clean install or an upgrade. For an upgrade, keep reading. If you are wanting a clean install, keep scrolling until you find the 'CLEAN INSTALL' section. Upgrading is generally not recommended, but it did work for me. You will be taking your chances with an upgrade however.
UPGRADING
  1. Make sure you have already downloaded the Big Sur app as stated under the 'What you will need' section.
  2. Open MountEFI, or your EFI mounting method of choice, and mount the EFI partition of your drive with macOS installed.
  3. Open the EFI partition.
  4. BACKUP YOUR EFI FOLDER! If the EFI folder that you have just made does not work, you will need a way of getting back into the OS. I recommend creating a Catalina USB installer with your original EFI folder in the EFI partition just in case it doesn't work
  5. Once backed up, delete the old EFI folder out of the partition and paste in the new one you created before.
  6. Open up the 'Install Big Sur Beta' app you installed and follow the prompts to install.
  7. Once you have restarted, select the macOS Installer option in Opencore.
  8. The install will take 20-30 minutes.
  9. Your computer will likely restart just before the progress bar reaches the end. When it does, boot from your USB, and select the macOS Installer option in Opencore again. Once your verbose output stops at something like Forcing CS_RUNTIME for entitlement, wait and be patient. This process could take 20 minutes to a few hours! Once you restart, select the 'YOUR_DRIVE_NAME_HERE-Data' option and let it boot. Follow the on-screen prompts to get to the desktop.
  10. Congratulations, you have successfully installed macOS 11 Big Sur on your Hackintosh!
CLEAN INSTALL
  1. Firstly, you will need to create the macOS Big Sur bootable installer. To do this, get your 16gb USB drive and format it in Disk Utility with the following settings.
    1. Name: whatever you like it really doesn't matter
    2. Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
    3. Scheme: GUID Partition Map
  2. FOR BETA 2: Next, open terminal and type in the following command sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Big\ Sur\ Beta.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/VOLUME_NAME_HERE
    1. FOR BETA 1: Next, open terminal and type in the following command sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Beta.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/VOLUME_NAME_HERE
  3. Let the createinstallmedia command do its magic. It might take a bit.
  4. Once that is done, open up MountEFI, or your EFI mounting method of choice, and mount the EFI partition of your USB.
  5. Open the EFI partition you just mounted and copy over the EFI folder you created before into it.
  6. Restart and boot from your USB.
  7. Select either the Install macOS Big Sur Beta, or the Install macOS Beta from the Opencore options, depending on if you created either a Beta 2 or Beta 1 USB.
  8. Install macOS as you would Catalina. Format the drive you will use to install macOS, and then install Big Sur through the on-screen prompts.
  9. It will say '3 minutes remaining for maybe 5-10 minutes', just be patient, it is working!
  10. Once your computer restarts, boot again to your USB and select the 'macOS Installer' option from the Opencore menu.
  11. The install will take roughly 30 minutes. It will likely restart just before the progress bar reaches the end.
  12. Once you restart, select the 'macOS Installer' option again from the Opencore menu. Once your verbose output stops at something like Forcing CS_RUNTIME for entitlement, wait and be patient. This process could take 20 minutes to a few hours! Once you restart, select the 'YOUR_DRIVE_NAME_HERE-Data' option and let it boot. Follow the on-screen prompts to get to the desktop.
  13. Congratulations, you have successfully installed macOS 11 Big Sur on your Hackintosh!
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Conclusion
Hopefully all of you had some success installing Big Sur. If you had success, leave a comment saying you did! I would love to know how it went. There are some amazing people who worked this extremely complex task. Make sure to give some thanks to IOIIIO on Github for the AMD kernel patches, InsanelyMac user Andrey1970 for the SMC fix, and of course the folks who grind to make Opencore compatible with the latest version of macOS. I am simply compiling this guide to make it easy for everyone to do this. Thank you everyone!
submitted by TheCrazyHoundDog to hackintosh [link] [comments]

How To Install And Run Borderlands 2 On Linux – Proton ⁄ Fixed Marcus Introduction & Cinematics

Hi everyone.
I've recently produced a video on how I got Borderlands 2 to work through Proton, check it out below and let me know what you think.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StPRBwPZE_c&feature=youtu.be
More specifically it covers how actually launch the game and fix the Marcus introduction cinematic so that it plays correctly and does not crash the game.
Alternatively for people who prefer a written guide see below:
STEP 1 – INSTALL THE GAME AND FORCE THE GAME TO LOAD WITH PROTON
Right click on the Properties of the game, tick the Force the use of a specific Steam Play compatibility tool option, click OK, and then install the game as normal.
STEP 2 – RENAME THE BORDERLANDS 2.EXE TO LAUNCHER.EXE
Right click on the game, go to Properties, LOCAL FILES, BROWSE LOCAL FILES, and in the window that appears click on the Binaries folder, and from there click on Win32.
Inside that folder rename Launcher.exe to Launcher.exe.old and Borderlands2.exe to Launcher.exe.
You will now be able to launch the game, and manually set your graphical options, so do that and exit the game once done.
STEP 3 – FIX THE CINEMATICS AND CUTSCENE VIDEOS
Download the first Media Foundation Wine Workaround script at: https://github.com/z0z0z/mf-install
Click on the green Code button, choose the Download ZIP option, extract the downloaded archive and open up a Terminal window in that folder.
In the Terminal window you want to type something similar to the following referencing where the game is installed on your system, which in my case is:
WINEPREFIX="/home/ryanj/.local/share/Steam/steamapps/compatdata/49520/pfx" ./mf-install.sh
Once done, download the second Media Foundation Wine Workaround script which can be found at: https://github.com/z0z0z/mf-installcab
Once again, click on the green Code button, choose the Download ZIP option, extract the downloaded archive and open up a Terminal window in that folder.
In the Terminal window you want to type something similar to the following referencing where the game is installed on your system, which in my case is:
WINEPREFIX="/home/ryanj/.local/share/Steam/steamapps/compatdata/49520/pfx" ./install-mf-32.sh
All you need to do at this point is copy the mfplat.dll to the game’s application folder.
The easiest method for doing that is to open up Steam, right click on the game, click on Properties, LOCAL FILES, BROWSE LOCAL FILES, and paste the dll in the window that appears.
STEP 4 – ADDITIONAL PERFORMANCE TWEAKS
Add the following to the game's custom launcher options: __GL_THREADED_OPTIMIZATIONS=1 PROTON_USE_D9VK=1 %command%
After all this is done, the game should function the same as running it on Windows.
If you found this helpful, please consider checking out all the other content on my channel and subscribing to support me.
Many Thanks
Ryan
submitted by Intelligent-Gaming to SteamPlay [link] [comments]

Step-by-Step Guide for Adding a Stack, Expanding Control Lines, and Building an Assembler

After the positive response to my first tutorial on expanding the RAM, I thought I'd continue the fun by expanding the capabilities of Ben's 8-bit CPU even further. That said, you'll need to have done the work in the previous post to be able to do this. You can get a sense for what we'll do in this Imgur gallery.
In this tutorial, we'll balance software and hardware improvements to make this a pretty capable machine:

Parts List

To only update the hardware, you'll need:
If you want to update the toolchain, you'll need:
  1. Arduino Mega 2560 (Amazon) to create the programmer.
  2. Ribbon Jumper Cables (Amazon) to connect the Arduino to the breadboard.
  3. TL866 II Plus EEPROM Programmer (Amazon) to program the ROM.
Bonus Clock Improvement: One additional thing I did is replace the 74LS04 inverter in Ben's clock circuit with a 74LS14 inverting Schmitt trigger (datasheet, Jameco). The pinouts are identical! Just drop it in, wire the existing lines, and then run the clock output through it twice (since it's inverting) to get a squeaky clean clock signal. Useful if you want to go even faster with the CPU.

Step 1: Program with an Arduino and Assembler (Image 1, Image 2)

There's a certain delight in the physical programming of a computer with switches. This is how Bill Gates and Paul Allen famously programmed the Altair 8800 and started Microsoft. But at some point, the hardware becomes limited by how effectively you can input the software. After upgrading the RAM, I quickly felt constrained by how long it took to program everything.
You can continue to program the computer physically if you want and even after upgrading that option is still available, so this step is optional. There's probably many ways to approach the programming, but this way felt simple and in the spirit of the build. We'll use an Arduino Mega 2560, like the one in Ben's 6502 build, to program the RAM. We'll start with a homemade assembler then switch to something more robust.
Preparing the Physical Interface
The first thing to do is prepare the CPU to be programmed by the Arduino. We already did the hard work on this in the RAM upgrade tutorial by using the bus to write to the RAM and disconnecting the control ROM while in program mode. Now we just need to route the appropriate lines to a convenient spot on the board to plug the Arduino into.
  1. This is optional, but I rewired all the DIP switches to have ground on one side, rather than alternating sides like Ben's build. This just makes it easier to route wires.
  2. Wire the 8 address lines from the DIP switch, connecting the side opposite to ground (the one going to the chips) to a convenient point on the board. I put them on the far left, next to the address LEDs and above the write button circuit.
  3. Wire the 8 data lines from the DIP switch, connecting the side opposite to ground (the one going to the chips) directly below the address lines. Make sure they're separated by the gutter so they're not connected.
  4. Wire a line from the write button to your input area. You want to connect the side of the button that's not connected to ground (the one going to the chip).
So now you have one convenient spot with 8 address lines, 8 data lines, and a write line. If you want to get fancy, you can wire them into some kind of connector, but I found that ribbon jumper cables work nicely and keep things tidy.
The way we'll program the RAM is to enter program mode and set all the DIP switches to the high position (e.g., 11111111). Since the switches are upside-down, this means they'll all be disconnected and not driving to ground. The address and write lines will simply be floating and the data lines will be weakly pulled up by 1k resistors. Either way, the Arduino can now drive the signals going into the chips using its outputs.
Creating the Arduino Programmer
Now that we can interface with an Arduino, we need to write some software. If you follow Ben's 6502 video, you'll have all the knowledge you need to get this working. If you want some hints and code, see below (source code):
  1. Create arrays for your data and address lines. For example: const char ADDRESS_LINES[] = {39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53};. Create your write line with #define RAM_WRITE 3.
  2. Create functions to enable and disable your address and data lines. You want to enable them before writing. Make sure to disable them afterward so that you can still manually program using DIP switches without disconnecting the Arduino. The code looks like this (just change INPUT to OUTPUT accordingly): for(int n = 0; n < 8; n += 1) { pinMode(ADDRESS_LINES[n], OUTPUT); }
  3. Create a function to write to an address. It'll look like void writeData(byte writeAddress, byte writeData) and basically use two loops, one for address and one for data, followed by toggling the write.
  4. Create a char array that contains your program and data. You can use #define to create opcodes like #define LDA 0x01.
  5. In your main function, loop through the program array and send it through writeData.
With this setup, you can now load multi-line programs in a fraction of a second! This can really come in handy with debugging by stress testing your CPU with software. Make sure to test your setup with existing programs you know run reliably. Now that you have your basic setup working, you can add 8 additional lines to read the bus and expand the program to let you read memory locations or even monitor the running of your CPU.
Making an Assembler
The above will serve us well but it's missing a key feature: labels. Labels are invaluable in assembly because they're so versatile. Jumps, subroutines, variables all use labels. The problem is that labels require parsing. Parsing is a fun project on the road to a compiler but not something I wanted to delve into right now--if you're interested, you can learn about Flex and Bison. Instead, I found a custom assembler that lets you define your CPU's instruction set and it'll do everything else for you. Let's get it setup:
  1. If you're on Windows, you can use the pre-built binaries. Otherwise, you'll need to install Rust and compile via cargo build.
  2. Create a file called 8bit.cpu and define your CPU instructions (source code). For example, LDA would be lda {address} -> 0x01 @ address[7:0]. What's cool is you can also now create the instruction's immediate variant instead of having to call it LDI: lda #{value} -> 0x05 @ value[7:0].
  3. You can now write assembly by adding #include "8bit.cpu" to the top of your code. There's a lot of neat features so make sure to read the documentation!
  4. Once you've written some assembly, you can generate the machine code using ./customasm yourprogram.s -f hexc -p. This prints out a char array just like our Arduino program used!
  5. Copy the char array into your Arduino program and send it to your CPU.
At this stage, you can start creating some pretty complex programs with ease. I would definitely play around with writing some larger programs. I actually found a bug in my hardware that was hidden for a while because my programs were never very complex!

Step 2: Expand the Control Lines (Image)

Before we can expand the CPU any further, we have to address the fact we're running out of control lines. An easy way to do this is to add a 3rd 28C16 ROM and be on your way. If you want something a little more involved but satisfying, read on.
Right now the control lines are one hot encoded. This means that if you have 4 lines, you can encode 4 states. But we know that a 4-bit binary number can encode 16 states. We'll use this principle via 74LS138 decoders, just like Ben used for the step counter.
Choosing the Control Line Combinations
Everything comes with trade-offs. In the case of combining control lines, it means the two control lines we choose to combine can never be activated at the same time. We can ensure this by encoding all the inputs together in the first 74LS138 and all the outputs together in a second 74LS138. We'll keep the remaining control lines directly connected.
Rewiring the Control Lines
If your build is anything like mine, the control lines are a bit of a mess. You'll need to be careful when rewiring to ensure it all comes back together correctly. Let's get to it:
  1. Place the two 74LS138 decoders on the far right side of the breadboard with the ROMs. Connect them to power and ground.
  2. You'll likely run out of inverters, so place a 74LS04 on the breadboard above your decoders. Connect it to power and ground.
  3. Carefully take your inputs (MI, RI, II, AI, BI, J) and wire them to the outputs of the left 74LS138. Do not wire anything to O0 because that's activated by 000 which won't work for us!
  4. Carefully take your outputs (RO, CO, AO, EO) and wire them to the outputs of the right 74LS138. Remember, do not wire anything to O0!
  5. Now, the 74LS138 outputs are active low, but the ROM outputs were active high. This means you need to swap the wiring on all your existing 74LS04 inverters for the LEDs and control lines to work. Make sure you track which control lines are supposed to be active high vs. active low!
  6. Wire E3 to power and E2 to ground. Connect the E1 on both 138s together, then connect it to the same line as OE on your ROMs. This will ensure that the outputs are disabled when you're in program mode. You can actually take off the 1k pull-up resistors from the previous tutorial at this stage, because the 138s actively drive the lines going to the 74LS04 inverters rather than floating like the ROMs.
At this point, you really need to ensure that the massive rewiring job was successful. Connect 3 jumper wires to A0-A2 and test all the combinations manually. Make sure the correct LED lights up and check with a multimeteoscilloscope that you're getting the right signal at each chip. Catching mistakes at this point will save you a lot of headaches! Now that everything is working, let's finish up:
  1. Connect A0-A2 of the left 74LS138 to the left ROM's A0-A2.
  2. Connect A0-A2 of the right 74LS138 to the right ROM's A0-A2.
  3. Distribute the rest of the control signals across the two ROMs.
Changing the ROM Code
This part is easy. We just need to update all of our #define with the new addresses and program the ROMs again. For clarity that we're not using one-hot encoding anymore, I recommend using hex instead of binary. So instead of #define MI 0b0000000100000000, we can use #define MI 0x0100, #define RI 0x0200, and so on.
Testing
Expanding the control lines required physically rewiring a lot of critical stuff, so small mistakes can creep up and make mysterious errors down the road. Write a program that activates each control line at least once and make sure it works properly! With your assembler and Arduino programmer, this should be trivial.
Bonus: Adding B Register Output
With the additional control lines, don't forget you can now add a BO signal easily which lets you fully use the B register.

Step 3: Add a Stack (Image 1, Image 2)

Adding a stack significantly expands the capability of the CPU. It enables subroutines, recursion, and handling interrupts (with some additional logic). We'll create our stack with an 8-bit stack pointer hard-coded from $0100 to $01FF, just like the 6502.
Wiring up the Stack Pointer
A stack pointer is conceptually similar to a program counter. It stores an address, you can read it and write to it, and it increments. The only difference between a stack pointer and a program counter is that the stack pointer must also decrement. To create our stack pointer, we'll use two 74LS193 4-bit up/down binary counters:
  1. Place a 74LS00 NAND gate, 74LS245 transceiver, and two 74LS193 counters in a row next to your output register. Wire up power and ground.
  2. Wire the the Carry output of the right 193 to the Count Up input of the left 193. Do the same for the Borrow output and Count Down input.
  3. Connect the Clear input between the two 193s and with an active high reset line. The B register has one you can use on its 74LS173s.
  4. Connect the Load input between the two 193s and to a new active low control line called SI on your 74LS138 decoder.
  5. Connect the QA-QD outputs of the lower counter to A8-A5 and the upper counter to A4-A1. Pay special attention because the output are in a weird order (BACD) and you want to make sure the lower A is connected to A8 and the upper A is connected to A4.
  6. Connect the A-D inputs of the lower counter to B8-B5 and the upper counter to B4-B1. Again, the inputs are in a weird order and on both sides of the chip so pay special attention.
  7. Connect the B1-B8 outputs of the 74LS245 transceiver to the bus.
  8. On the 74LS245 transceiver, connect DIR to power (high) and connect OE to a new active low control line called SO on your 74LS138 decoder.
  9. Add 8 LEDs and resistors to the lower part of the 74LS245 transceiver (A1-A8) so you can see what's going on with the stack pointer.
Enabling Increment & Decrement
We've now connected everything but the Count Up and Count Down inputs. The way the 74LS193 works is that if nothing is counting, both inputs are high. If you want to increment, you keep Count Down high and pulse Count Up. To decrement, you do the opposite. We'll use a 74LS00 NAND gate for this:
  1. Take the clock from the 74LS08 AND gate and make it an input into two different NAND gates on the 74LS00.
  2. Take the output from one NAND gate and wire it to the Count Up input on the lower 74LS193 counter. Take the other output and wire it to the Count Down input.
  3. Wire up a new active high control line called SP from your ROM to the NAND gate going into Count Up.
  4. Wire up a new active high control line called SM from your ROM to the NAND gate going into Count Down.
At this point, everything should be working. Your counter should be able to reset, input a value, output a value, and increment/decrement. But the issue is it'll be writing to $0000 to $00FF in the RAM! Let's fix that.
Accessing Higher Memory Addresses
We need the stack to be in a different place in memory than our regular program. The problem is, we only have an 8-bit bus, so how do we tell the RAM we want a higher address? We'll use a special control line to do this:
  1. Wire up an active high line called SA from the 28C16 ROM to A8 on the Cypress CY7C199 RAM.
  2. Add an LED and resistor so you can see when the stack is active.
That's it! Now, whenever we need the stack we can use a combination of the control line and stack pointer to access $0100 to $01FF.
Updating the Instruction Set
All that's left now is to create some instructions that utilize the stack. We'll need to settle some conventions before we begin:
If you want to add a little personal flair to your design, you can change the convention fairly easily. Let's implement push and pop (source code):
  1. Define all your new control lines, such as #define SI 0x0700 and #define SO 0x0005.
  2. Create two new instructions: PSH (1011) and POP (1100).
  3. PSH starts the same as any other for the first two steps: MI|CO and RO|II|CE. The next step is to put the contents of the stack pointer into the address register via MI|SO|SA. Recall that SA is the special control line that tells the memory to access the $01XX bank rather than $00XX.
  4. We then take the contents of AO and write it into the RAM. We can also increment the stack pointer at this stage. All of this is done via: AO|RI|SP|SA, followed by TR.
  5. POP is pretty similar. Start off with MI|CO and RO|II|CE. We then need to take a cycle and decrement the stack pointer with SM. Like with PSH, we then set the address register with MI|SO|SA.
  6. We now just need to output the RAM into our A register with RO|AI|SA and then end the instruction with TR.
  7. Updating the assembler is easy since neither instruction has operands. For example, push is just psh -> 0x0B.
And that's it! Write some programs that take advantage of your new 256 byte stack to make sure everything works as expected.

Step 4: Add Subroutine Instructions (Image)

The last step to complete our stack is to add subroutine instructions. This allows us to write complex programs and paves the way for things like interrupt handling.
Subroutines are like a blend of push/pop instructions and a jump. Basically, when you want to call a subroutine, you save your spot in the program by pushing the program counter onto the stack, then jumping to the subroutine's location in memory. When you're done with the subroutine, you simply pop the program counter value from the stack and jump back into it.
We'll follow 6502 conventions and only save and restore the program counter for subroutines. Other CPUs may choose to save more state, but it's generally left up to the programmer to ensure they're not wiping out states in their subroutines (e.g., push the A register at the start of your subroutine if you're messing with it and restore it before you leave).
Adding an Extra Opcode Line
I've started running low on opcodes at this point. Luckily, we still have two free address lines we can use. To enable 5-bit opcodes, simply wire up the 4Q output of your upper 74LS173 register to A7 of your 28C16 ROM (this assumes your opcodes are at A3-A6).
Updating the ROM Writer
At this point, you simply need to update the Arduino writer to support 32 instructions vs. the current 16. So, for example, UCODE_TEMPLATE[16][8] becomes UCODE_TEMPLATE[32][8] and you fill in the 16 new array elements with nop. The problem is that the Arduino only has so much memory and with the way Ben's code is written to support conditional jumps, it starts to get tight.
I bet the code can be re-written to handle this, but I had a TL866II Plus EEPROM programmer handy from the 6502 build and I felt it would be easier to start using that instead. Converting to a regular C program is really simple (source code):
  1. Copy all the #define, global const arrays (don't forget to expand them from 16 to 32), and void initUCode(). Add #include and #include to the top.
  2. In your traditional int main (void) C function, after initializing with initUCode(), make two arrays: char ucode_upper[2048] and char ucode_lower[2048].
  3. Take your existing loop code that loops through all addresses: for (int address = 0; address < 2048; address++).
  4. Modify instruction to be 5-bit with int instruction = (address & 0b00011111000) >> 3;.
  5. When writing, just write to the arrays like so: ucode_lower[address] = ucode[flags][instruction][step]; and ucode_upper[address] = ucode[flags][instruction][step] >> 8;.
  6. Open a new file with FILE *f = fopen("rom_upper.hex", "wb");, write to it with fwrite(ucode_upper, sizeof(char), sizeof(ucode_upper), f); and close it with fclose(f);. Repeat this with the lower ROM too.
  7. Compile your code using gcc (you can use any C compiler), like so: gcc -Wall makerom.c -o makerom.
Running your program will spit out two binary files with the full contents of each ROM. Writing the file via the TL866II Plus requires minipro and the following command: minipro -p CAT28C16A -w rom_upper.hex.
Adding Subroutine Instructions
At this point, I cleaned up my instruction set layout a bit. I made psh and pop 1000 and 1001, respectively. I then created two new instructions: jsr and rts. These allow us to jump to a subroutine and returns from a subroutine. They're relatively simple:
  1. For jsr, the first three steps are the same as psh: MI|CO, RO|II|CE, MI|SO|SA.
  2. On the next step, instead of AO we use CO to save the program counter to the stack: CO|RI|SP|SA.
  3. We then essentially read the 2nd byte to do a jump and terminate: MI|CO, RO|J.
  4. For rts, the first four steps are the same as pop: MI|CO, RO|II|CE, SM, MI|SO|SA.
  5. On the next step, instead of AI we use J to load the program counter with the contents in stack: RO|J|SA.
  6. We're not done! If we just left this as-is, we'd jump to the 2nd byte of jsr which is not an opcode, but a memory address. All hell would break loose! We need to add a CE step to increment the program counter and then terminate.
Once you update the ROM, you should have fully functioning subroutines with 5-bit opcodes. One great way to test them is to create a recursive program to calculate something--just don't go too deep or you'll end up with a stack overflow!

Conclusion

And that's it! Another successful upgrade of your 8-bit CPU. You now have a very capable machine and toolchain. At this point I would have a bunch of fun with the software aspects. In terms of hardware, there's a number of ways to go from here:
  1. Interrupts. Interrupts are just special subroutines triggered by an external line. You can make one similar to how Ben did conditional jumps. The only added complexity is the need to load/save the flags register since an interrupt can happen at any time and you don't want to destroy the state. Given this would take more than 8 steps, you'd also need to add another line for the step counter (see below).
  2. ROM expansion. At this point, address lines on the ROM are getting tight which limits any expansion possibilities. With the new approach to ROM programming, it's trivial to switch out the 28C16 for the 28C256 that Ben uses in the 6502. These give you 4 additional address lines for flags/interrupts, opcodes, and steps.
  3. LCD output. At this point, adding a 16x2 character LCD like Ben uses in the 6502 is very possible.
  4. Segment/bank register. It's essentially a 2nd memory address register that lets you access 256-byte segments/banks of RAM using bank switching. This lets you take full advantage of the 32K of RAM in the Cypress chip.
  5. Fast increment instructions. Add these to registers by replacing 74LS173s with 74LS193s, allowing you to more quickly increment without going through the ALU. This is used to speed up loops and array operations.
submitted by MironV to beneater [link] [comments]

How To Install And Run Borderlands 2 On Linux – Proton ⁄ Fixed Marcus Introduction & Cinematics

Hi everyone.
I've recently produced a video on how I got Borderlands 2 to work through Proton, check it out below and let me know what you think.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StPRBwPZE_c&feature=youtu.be
More specifically it covers how actually launch the game and fix the Marcus introduction cinematic so that it plays correctly and does not crash the game.
Alternatively for people who prefer a written guide see below:
STEP 1 – INSTALL THE GAME AND FORCE THE GAME TO LOAD WITH PROTON
Right click on the Properties of the game, tick the Force the use of a specific Steam Play compatibility tool option, click OK, and then install the game as normal.
STEP 2 – RENAME THE BORDERLANDS 2.EXE TO LAUNCHER.EXE
Right click on the game, go to Properties, LOCAL FILES, BROWSE LOCAL FILES, and in the window that appears click on the Binaries folder, and from there click on Win32.
Inside that folder rename Launcher.exe to Launcher.exe.old and Borderlands2.exe to Launcher.exe.
You will now be able to launch the game, and manually set your graphical options, so do that and exit the game once done.
STEP 3 – FIX THE CINEMATICS AND CUTSCENE VIDEOS
Download the first Media Foundation Wine Workaround script at: https://github.com/z0z0z/mf-install
Click on the green Code button, choose the Download ZIP option, extract the downloaded archive and open up a Terminal window in that folder.
In the Terminal window you want to type something similar to the following referencing where the game is installed on your system, which in my case is:
WINEPREFIX="/home/ryanj/.local/share/Steam/steamapps/compatdata/49520/pfx" ./mf-install.sh
Once done, download the second Media Foundation Wine Workaround script which can be found at: https://github.com/z0z0z/mf-installcab
Once again, click on the green Code button, choose the Download ZIP option, extract the downloaded archive and open up a Terminal window in that folder.
In the Terminal window you want to type something similar to the following referencing where the game is installed on your system, which in my case is:
WINEPREFIX="/home/ryanj/.local/share/Steam/steamapps/compatdata/49520/pfx" ./install-mf-32.sh
All you need to do at this point is copy the mfplat.dll to the game’s application folder.
The easiest method for doing that is to open up Steam, right click on the game, click on Properties, LOCAL FILES, BROWSE LOCAL FILES, and paste the dll in the window that appears.
STEP 4 – ADDITIONAL PERFORMANCE TWEAKS
Add the following to the game's custom launcher options: __GL_THREADED_OPTIMIZATIONS=1 PROTON_USE_D9VK=1 %command%
After all this is done, the game should function the same as running it on Windows.
If you found this helpful, please consider checking out all the other content on my channel and subscribing to support me.
Many Thanks
Ryan
submitted by Intelligent-Gaming to wine_gaming [link] [comments]

Tutorial on “Flash TUYA RGBW Bulb with HAA firmware “ and make it “Works with HomeKit”

TL, DR; flashing TUYA devices with HAA firmware to make them appear in Home App as “Works with HomeKit”
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Flash TUYA RGBW Bulb with HAA
Few things at start
—————————
• ⁠Home Accessory Architecture (HAA) is firmware from RavenSystem for ESP8266/8285 based smart devices (which are almost all). Link to github https://github.com/RavenSystem/esp-homekit-devices • ⁠concept : replace existing ESP based device firmware with HAA firmware (called flashing). • ⁠This makes the device directly compatible with Home App. No homebridge required. • ⁠usually HAA is in form of three files but tuya-convert requires a single file. We will see how to get that. • ⁠using Pi Zero WH with Raspbian Sretch Lite with usb keyboard (since pi zero w doesn’t have Ethernet port) • ⁠using MacBook Pro as laptop (you can use any other)
Steps
———
Raspbian Stretch Lite install ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
• ⁠fresh install of raspbian stretch lite on a SD card using balenaEtcher. This is important for many dependencies required by tuya-convert. https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/ • ⁠create wpa_supplicant.conf and ssh flies in root of SD card • ⁠insert in Pi ZeroW...update and upgrade after boot
Tuya-Convert Install
••••••••••••••••••••••
• ⁠using usb keyboard attached to USB port and TV hooked to HDMI port of Pi • ⁠Type"git clone https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert" enter and wait. • ⁠Type "cd tuya-convert" • ⁠Type "./install_prereq.sh" and wait. • ⁠Download single HAA firmware file... https://github.com/maslyankov/haa-single-binary/raw/mastehaa-single.bin • ⁠copy it into “tuya-convert/files” folder. This is important otherwise you won’t get an option to flash HAA during the process and it will default to provided firmwares (tasmota, edpunra) • ⁠start the flash process...”./start_flash.sh” • ⁠connect to Access Point (WiFi) generated by Pi using an android device for simplicity (iOS device can work too) and join “vtrust-flash” • ⁠put tuya bulb in pairing mode (blinking continuously). Most tuya bulbs go into this after you rapidly turn on/off 4 times. But do check your device instruction • ⁠proceed with flash process by pressing enter. You should firmware being copied over and successfull flash message. • ⁠connect to Tuya bulb AP after it restarts to its AP...HAA-XXXX • ⁠join this WiFi and browse to http://device ip. • ⁠enter “bawoo bulb” json string from here.. https://github.com/RavenSystem/esp-homekit-devices/wiki/Devices-Database. • ⁠json string that works the best for RGBW (red green blue white - 4 channels) {"c":{"b":[{"g":0}]},"a":[{"t":30,"r":14,"g":12,"v":13,"w":4,"fr":4,"fg":4,"fv":4}] • ⁠configure your WiFi in the web page. Make sure to do it correctly. The bulb will restart after pressing SAVE and appear on your network with Device name as HAA-XXXX. Check with your router we page listing WLAN clients. • ⁠add to home app after restart by usual “add accessory->don’t have code... • ⁠insert code 021-82-017 • ⁠all done
submitted by Mazhar67 to homebridge [link] [comments]

How To Install And Run Borderlands 2 On Linux – Proton ⁄ Fixed Marcus Introduction & Cinematics

Hi everyone.
I've recently produced a video on how I got Borderlands 2 to work through Proton, check it out below and let me know what you think.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StPRBwPZE_c&feature=youtu.be
More specifically it covers how actually launch the game and fix the Marcus introduction cinematic so that it plays correctly and does not crash the game.
Alternatively for people who prefer a written guide see below:
STEP 1 – INSTALL THE GAME AND FORCE THE GAME TO LOAD WITH PROTON
Right click on the Properties of the game, tick the Force the use of a specific Steam Play compatibility tool option, click OK, and then install the game as normal.
STEP 2 – RENAME THE BORDERLANDS 2.EXE TO LAUNCHER.EXE
Right click on the game, go to Properties, LOCAL FILES, BROWSE LOCAL FILES, and in the window that appears click on the Binaries folder, and from there click on Win32.
Inside that folder rename Launcher.exe to Launcher.exe.old and Borderlands2.exe to Launcher.exe.
You will now be able to launch the game, and manually set your graphical options, so do that and exit the game once done.
STEP 3 – FIX THE CINEMATICS AND CUTSCENE VIDEOS
Download the first Media Foundation Wine Workaround script at: https://github.com/z0z0z/mf-install
Click on the green Code button, choose the Download ZIP option, extract the downloaded archive and open up a Terminal window in that folder.
In the Terminal window you want to type something similar to the following referencing where the game is installed on your system, which in my case is:
WINEPREFIX="/home/ryanj/.local/share/Steam/steamapps/compatdata/49520/pfx" ./mf-install.sh
Once done, download the second Media Foundation Wine Workaround script which can be found at: https://github.com/z0z0z/mf-installcab
Once again, click on the green Code button, choose the Download ZIP option, extract the downloaded archive and open up a Terminal window in that folder.
In the Terminal window you want to type something similar to the following referencing where the game is installed on your system, which in my case is:
WINEPREFIX="/home/ryanj/.local/share/Steam/steamapps/compatdata/49520/pfx" ./install-mf-32.sh
All you need to do at this point is copy the mfplat.dll to the game’s application folder.
The easiest method for doing that is to open up Steam, right click on the game, click on Properties, LOCAL FILES, BROWSE LOCAL FILES, and paste the dll in the window that appears.
STEP 4 – ADDITIONAL PERFORMANCE TWEAKS
Add the following to the game's custom launcher options: __GL_THREADED_OPTIMIZATIONS=1 PROTON_USE_D9VK=1 %command%
After all this is done, the game should function the same as running it on Windows.
If you found this helpful, please consider checking out all the other content on my channel and subscribing to support me.
Many Thanks
Ryan
submitted by Intelligent-Gaming to linux_gaming [link] [comments]

How To Install And Run Borderlands 2 On Linux – Proton ⁄ Fixed Marcus Introduction & Cinematics

Hi everyone.
So it is widely considered that the Linux port of Borderlands 2 is poor at best, so the next best thing is to run the Windows version through Proton, which is exactly what my latest video covers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StPRBwPZE_c&feature=youtu.be
More specifically it covers how actually launch the game and fix the Marcus introduction cinematic so that it plays correctly and does not crash the game.
Alternatively for people who prefer a written guide see below:
STEP 1 – INSTALL THE GAME AND FORCE THE GAME TO LOAD WITH PROTON
Right click on the Properties of the game, tick the Force the use of a specific Steam Play compatibility tool option, click OK, and then install the game as normal.
STEP 2 – RENAME THE BORDERLANDS 2.EXE TO LAUNCHER.EXE
Right click on the game, go to Properties, LOCAL FILES, BROWSE LOCAL FILES, and in the window that appears click on the Binaries folder, and from there click on Win32.
Inside that folder rename Launcher.exe to Launcher.exe.old and Borderlands2.exe to Launcher.exe.
You will now be able to launch the game, and manually set your graphical options, so do that and exit the game once done.
STEP 3 – FIX THE CINEMATICS AND CUTSCENE VIDEOS
Download the first Media Foundation Wine Workaround script at: https://github.com/z0z0z/mf-install
Click on the green Code button, choose the Download ZIP option, extract the downloaded archive and open up a Terminal window in that folder.
In the Terminal window you want to type something similar to the following referencing where the game is installed on your system, which in my case is:
WINEPREFIX="/home/ryanj/.local/share/Steam/steamapps/compatdata/49520/pfx" ./mf-install.sh
Once done, download the second Media Foundation Wine Workaround script which can be found at: https://github.com/z0z0z/mf-installcab
Once again, click on the green Code button, choose the Download ZIP option, extract the downloaded archive and open up a Terminal window in that folder.
In the Terminal window you want to type something similar to the following referencing where the game is installed on your system, which in my case is:
WINEPREFIX="/home/ryanj/.local/share/Steam/steamapps/compatdata/49520/pfx" ./install-mf-32.sh
All you need to do at this point is copy the mfplat.dll to the game’s application folder.
The easiest method for doing that is to open up Steam, right click on the game, click on Properties, LOCAL FILES, BROWSE LOCAL FILES, and paste the dll in the window that appears.
STEP 4 – ADDITIONAL PERFORMANCE TWEAKS
Add the following to the game's custom launcher options: __GL_THREADED_OPTIMIZATIONS=1 PROTON_USE_D9VK=1 %command%
After all this is done, the game should function the same as running it on Windows.
If you found this helpful, please consider checking out all the other content on my channel and subscribing to support me.
Many Thanks
Ryan
submitted by Intelligent-Gaming to linux4noobs [link] [comments]

The new Samsung A50+Android 10 & One UI 2.0 Megathread

The new Samsung A50+Android 10 & One UI 2.0 Megathread
First of all, welcome to GalaxyA50!
We are replacing our current megathread of One UI to make a whole post where we can treat several subjects to guide our members the best way we can.

Android 10 & One UI 2.0

In order to make things easier and to allow more people to add information, we have made a wiki page instead. Once you get the update, check to see if your CSC was added to the page. If not, add it! If you can’t, please add your CSC along with your region in the comments and we will try to add it.
This thread will still serve to allow a place for your screenshots of the update and general discussion.
You may still find the old megathread here.


New and more specific flairs!

We have created flairs for your specific device, that way when it comes to helping out others members of the community or discussing about updates, we can have a faster way of identifying each other. Please update your flair to your device. We have added the following:
• SM-A505F
• SM-A505FN
• SM-A505F/DS
• SM-A505FD
• SM-A505FM/DS
• SM-A505FN/DS
• SM-A505G
• SM-A505G/DS
• SM-A505GN/DS
• SM-A505GT/DS
• SM-A505U
• SM-A505U1
• SM-A505W
• SM-A505YN
We believe those are all the models of the A50 but please, if your device is missing, let us know and we’ll add it as soon as possible.


Using the sub for support

Our community loves helping, we want to provide the top-quality answers to each one of our members in every issue presented and if we can’t find a solution, we’ll try to find a workaround as a temporary fix.

Please use “Possible bug” or “Need help” flair so everyone can find easier the bugs reported, the issues presented and avoid several posts about the same problem.This way we can get all our members to participate in finding a fix but also, it’ll help us to list every bug or issue according to the device model or region.
Please, whenever you make a post add the model, region and CSC, so our assistance can be more accurate and also remember that if we can’t find a solution, you still have Samsung Members to get official help from Samsung.


Flashing stock firmware, Custom ROMs, Custom Recovery and others

Well, this is a sensitive subject. We do not promote this behaviour nor condone it but will not censor it because it’s a harsh reality and a path that many users take now these days.
Instead of leaving it be, we are taking action for you to be informed as best as possible and avoid messing up your phone.

What will happen if you follow this path:
A. Your warranty will be void.
B. Your phone can end up bricked.
C. Samsung Firmware OTA (known as System Updates) will no longer work once you flashed custom binaries. You’d need to flash every time there is an update.
D. All KNOX-related apps like Samsung Pay, Secure Folder and others will no longer work.
So be very careful if you decide on continuing anyways because we will NOT take responsibility for your mistakes and laugh at you if you attempt to blame us for it. You have been informed of the risks.

Flashing stock firmware
To flash stock firmware, you have to download the desired firmware and Odin from sites like Sammobile.
Be sure to download the exact same model. It can be from a different region but it is crucial that the firmware is for the exact same model else you’ll definitely brick your device.

Instructions:
  1. Once you download the firmware, extract it and you should get 5 files:
  2. AP (it’s System and Recovery)
  3. BL (it’s the bootloader)
  4. CP (it’s Modem/Radio)
  5. CSC_XXX (it’s Country/Region/Operator, cleans all data and apps, it’s a clean flash)
  6. HOME_CSC_XXX (it’s Country/Region/Operator, you can keep apps and data but it’s a dirty flash, a.k.a. possible brick)
  7. Add each file to the respective field in Odin.
  8. Reboot your phone in Download mode (also known as Odin mode)
How to reboot it:
  1. Turn off your device completely.
  2. Hold both Volume Up and Volume Down buttons.
  3. Connect your device to a PC or laptop.
  4. Once the screen changes, let go off both buttons.
  5. Odin should detect your device and a blue box will show up with the COM port number.If they don’t appear, please be sure to have Samsung drivers installed in your pc or laptop.
  6. Do not tick any boxes. The only options that should be ticked already (if they aren’t please tick them) are F. Reset Time and Auto-Reboot.
  7. Click the start button, let Odin do its job until you see a green coloured box with the text “PASS”. That means the flash has been completed and your phone is rebooting (should be rebooting unless you didn’t tick it for some reason).At any point from now you can disconnect your device.

Flashing Custom Recovery and ROMs
In this case, we’d love to give you information about it but we believe custom recoveries and ROMs are still in an early stage and we’ve found multiple information sites and posts that lead to different ways of installing each.
We are not going to guide you on this one, in fact, please don’t attempt to do it. Also, when it comes to flashing these two, if you screw up doing anything, please do not ask for help or complain in this sub. We will delete your post or comment.
For any type of issues or complaints about a custom ROM or Recovery, please go to the site or forum you downloaded it from.

So that'd be all for this megathread! Please be sure to comment on any matter you'd like to add and if you have any info on updates, please add it here as well with many details as possible!
Cheers!
submitted by GalaxyA50Mods to GalaxyA50 [link] [comments]

List of New Supported Games and FAQ.

Hey guys! Here is a list of all the new supported games, you can download the Nucleus Co-Op scripts from the app now, the games listed here that are clickable link you to a guide but all are supported. You can also see all available scripts from the app now by pressing the view all option.
10 Miles to Safety
20XX
100% Orange Juice
200% Mixed Juice!
Abyssal Zone
Acceleration of SUGURI 2
A Hat in Time
Air Missions: HIND
Alien Breed Impact
Alien Breed 2: Assault
Alien Breed 3: Descent
Aliens Colonial Marines
Aliens vs Predator
Alien Swarm: Reactive Drop
Aragami: Shadow Edition
ARK: Survival Evolved
Ashen (steam version only)
Astroneer
Attack on Titan 2
ATV Drift & Tricks
Barony
Binary Domain
BioShock 2
Bit Dungeon III
Blades of Time
Bladestorm: Nightmare
Blood and Bacon
Bob Was Hungry
Borderlands
Borderlands 2
Borderlands: The Pre-Sequel
Borderlands GOTY Enhanced
Borderlands 3
Broomstick League
Bulletstorm: Full Clip Edition
Bunch of Heroes
CastleMiner Z
Clandestine
Cladun Returns: This is Segoku
Chivalry: Medieval Warfare
Citadel: Forged With Fire
Code of Princess
Conan Exiles (16 june 2020 update added Funcom Live Services and now the game is online only effectively breaking the splitscreen script. You need to downgrade to the previous version.)
Contagion
Contra: Rogue Corps
Counter-Strike: Source
Cube World
Cyberdimension Neptunia: 4 Goddesses Online
Daemon X Machina
Damnation
Dark Souls: Prepare to Die Edition
Day of Defeat: Source
Day of Infamy
Deadfall Adventures
Dead Island
Dead Island: DE
Dead Island Riptide: DE
Dead Rising 2
Dead Rising 2: Off the Record
Dead Rising 3
Dead Rising 4
Deathtrap
Debris
Deep Rock Galactic
Desolate
Dinosaur Hunt
Divinity: Dragon Commander
Divinity: Original Sin Enhanced Edition
Divinity: Original Sin 2
Don't Starve Together
Door Kickers
Dragon Ball Xenoverse
Dragon Ball: Xenoverse 2
Dragon Marked for Death
Dragon Quest Builders 2
Dungeon of the Endless
Dungeons 3
Dungeon Siege III
Dying Light
Dystopia
Earth Defense Force 4.1
Earth Defense Force 5
Earth Defense Force: Insect Armageddon
Earth Defense Force: Iron Rain
Earthfall
Enemy Front
F1 2012
Fade to Silence
Factorio
Fallout 76
F.E.A.R. 3
Final Exam
Feel The Snow
Fight The Dragon
Fistful of Frags
Forge Quest
Fortified
Front Mission Evolved
Full Mojo Rampage
Garry's Mod
Gas Guzzlers Extreme
Generation Zero
GOCCO OF WAR
God Eater Resurrection
God Eater 2 - Rage Burst
God Eater 3
God Mode
Grim Dawn
Ground Branch
GTFO
Guns n Zombies
Half-Life Deathmatch: Source
Half-Life 2: Deathmatch
Half-Minute Hero: The Second
Halo Custom Edition
Halo 2 LAN
Halo 2: Project Cartographer
Halo Online ElDewrito
Halo: The Master Chief Collection
Halo Wars: Definitive Edition
Hammerwatch
Hero Siege
Hunted: The Demon’s Forge
Human: Fall Flat
I am Weapon: Revival
Insurgency
Iron Brigade
It came from space, and ate our brains
KATANA KAMI: A Way of the Samurai Story
Killing Floor
Killing Floor 2
Killsquad
Kill to Collect
Lead and Gold: Gangs of the Wild West
Left 4 Dead 2
LEGO Worlds
Livelock
Lord of the Rings War in the North
Magicite
Mean Greens - Plastic Warfare
Mighty No. 9
Minecraft Java Edition
Monday Night Combat
Morphies Law
Mothergunship
NanoWars
Necropolis
Need For Speed Most Wanted 2005
Nioh: Complete Edition
Niffelheim
No Man's Sky
No More Room in Hell
Outbreak
Outbreak: TNN
Outland
Outward
Orcs Must Die! 2
ORION: Prelude
OVERKILL's The Walking Dead
Pacify
PAYDAY: The Heist
PAYDAY 2
Pirates, Vikings, and Knights II
PixARK
Portal Knights
Prevent The Fall
Primal Carnage: Extinction
Pure
Raft
Rage
Remnant: From the Ashes
Resident Evil 5
Resident Evil 6
Resident Evil Revelations
Re-Volt (RVGL)
RimWorld
Risk of Rain 2
Roguelands
Ryse: Son of Rome
Sacred 3
Saints Row The Third
Saints Row IV
Saints Row: Gat out of Hell
Sanctum
Sanctum 2
Scourge Outbreak
Secrets of Grindea
Senran Kagura: Shinovi Versus
Senran Kagura: Estival Versus
Senran Kagura: Peach Beach Splash
Serious Sam 2
Seven Days to Die
Sir, You Are Being Hunted
SkyDrift
Sniper Elite 3
Space Engineers
Space Hulk: Deathwing - Enhanced Edition
Spec Ops: The Line
Spintires
Starbound
Stardew Valley
Star Wars: Battlefront 2 (Classic, 2005)
Strange Brigade
Strength of the Sword: ULTIMATE
Styx: Shards of Darkness
Super Mario 64
Survivalist
Sven Coop
Sword Art Online Re: Hollow Fragment
Sword Art Online: Lost Song
Sword Art Online: Hollow Realization Deluxe Edition
Synergy
SYNTHETIK: Arena
SYNTHETIK: Legion Rising
Takedown: Red Sabre
Team Fortress 2
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles: Mutants in Manhattan
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles: Out of the Shadows
Terraria
TerraTech
The Blackout Club
The Darkness 2
The Forest
The Haunted: Hells Reach
theHunter: Call of the Wild
The Incredible Adventures of Van Helsing
The Incredible Adventures of Van Helsing II
The Incredible Adventures of Van Helsing III
The Incredible Adventures of Van Helsing Final Cut
The Mean Greens - Plastic Warfare
The Simple Apocalypse
The Watchers
Tokyo Ghoul:re Call to Exist
Tom Clancy's Rainbow Six: Vegas 2
Tomb Raider
Torchlight II
Toukiden: Kiwami
Toukiden 2
Unending Dusk
Unepic
Unloved
Unreal Tournament III
Umbrella Corps
Vagante
Warcraft III: The Frozen Throne
Warcraft III: Reign of Chaos
Warhammer 40,000: Space Marine
We Were Here Together
White Noise 2
World in Conflict: Complete Edition
Wreckfest
XCOM: Enemy Within
Zeno Clash II
Zombie Army Trilogy
Zombie Panic! Source

Frequently Asked Questions & Troubleshooting

(Under Construction, last updated: 06/06/20)
Q: What is Nucleus Co-Op?
A: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbituCgu3Bc
Nucleus Co-Op is a free and open source tool for Windows that allows split-screen play on many games that do not initially support it. The app was originally created by Lucas Assis, Zerofox later took over and added a ton of new features and improvements to support a lot more games. Ilyaki later joined in and brought multiple keyboards/mice support and more great features to the table. The app is currently being developed and updated by these devs: Lucas Assis, Zerofox and Ilyaki.
R-mach too for making and supporting the website that hosts the Nucleus Co-Op scripts.
Also the further development of the app wouldn't have been possible without all the amazing contributions and hard work from the SplitScreen Dreams Discord members (which include the devs mentioned above) that made all the new Nucleus Co-Op scripts and continue to make new discoveries and scripts to support even more games, among them: Talos91, PoundlandBacon, dr. old.boi, Pizzo and many more.
Q: How does Nucleus Co-Op work?
A: Essentially Nucleus Co-Op opens multiple instances of the same game (some games require mutex killing for that or other methods) that will only answer to one specific gamepad (we do this via Nucleus Co-Op custom xinput dlls or xinput plus dlls) and connects those instances via LAN or steamworks online multiplayer emulation (Goldberg Emulator), all while making sure all windows have focus so they can be playable with gamepads or that the instances are playable even in the background. Nucleus then resizes, removes borders and repositions the games windows so you can have synthetic splitscreen to play locally with your friends.
Q: Which games can be splitscreened using Nucleus Co-Op?
A: There are a lot of supported games, all mentioned in the list above. A ton of games are now supported thanks to the amazing program called Goldberg Emulator, developed by Mr. Goldberg, a big thank you to him. Read the Goldberg FAQ linked too if you want to know more.
Q: Where do I download Nucleus Co-Op?
A: You can download latest version from Github. Download the compiled .rar release, don't download the source code zip if you just want to use the app.
Q: How do I use Nucleus Co-Op?
A: Here is a quick video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWmvz59i-o0
1.- Download and exctract Nucleus Co-Op (extract using apps like 7-zip or winrar).
2.- Open NucleusCoop.exe.
3.- Click on Download Game Scripts, search for a game in the supported games list and download a script. You can also see all available scripts from the app now by pressing the view all option.
4.- Once the script has finished downloading you will get a prompt asking if you would like to add a game now, press yes if you want to add it now, if you select no proceed to step 6.
5.- Next you need to find where your game's executable is located. If you're not sure, try Googling 'where is (game) installed' and just searching for .exe in the place they tell you to look. For Steam games this is usually something along the lines of 'C:\Program Files\Steam\steamapps\common(game)'. Some games will have their real .exe stashed away in a folder called 'bin' or 'binaries' inside that place. Once you choose the right .exe, add the game.
6.- You can also automatically add games, click 'Auto-Search' and select the drive and path you want to add games from.
7.- Once your game is added, select it in the Nucleus UI and drag the gamepads icons to the splitscreen layout, click on the top-left icon on the layout corner to change the type of splitscreen layout. You can also right click a player in the layout to change the size.
8.- Finally press play and you are ready to go.
Q: Where should I place the Nucleus Co-Op folder?
A: Nucleus Co-Op can be placed almost anywhere(Documents, Downloads, Desktop, etc...) except inside the game files.
Q: How do I play with an uneven amount of players (such as 3 players) without having an empty space?
A: Right click on a section of the splitscreen layout
Q: Nucleus Co-Op doesn't launch, how do I fix it?
A: Here are a few things you can try:
1.- Try updating your Microsoft.net framework, and install/reinstall Visual C++ 2010-2017.
2.- Run Nucleus Co-Op as admin.
3.- Make sure your antivirus program is not blocking Nucleus Co-Op.
4.- Restart your PC, and try again.
Q: I wish to help out with the project, how can I get in touch?
A: Join the Nucleus Co-Op discord community or contact us here in the subreddit.
Q: When support for X game?
A: Not all games are easy to splitscreen, if you want to suggest a game make a post with the title [Request] Name of the game and provide useful information like if the game supports LAN or dedicated servers, if it is available on Steam or in other services, if it uses external servers for online etc. Also you can contact any of our experienced Nucleus scripters here or in the Nucleus Co-Op discord and ask if a script is possible. The main scripter is the OP of this post for instance. Remember that Scripters are limited by the games they own and can test on, so if you really want support for a game to be added consider donating the game to the scripter in question.
Q: How do I know when a script gets updated?
A: Scipt updates are always announced in the Nucleus Co-Op discord server in the channel script updates.
Q: How do I create my own splitscreen script for Nucleus Co-Op?
A: Here is the documentation, open the .js file with notepad to read it. You can also use the other scripts you download from Nucleus as reference, they get downloaded to the Nucleus scripts folder. If you create a working script or if you have any questions about Nucleus scripting you can ask us in the Nucleus Co-Op discord or here in the subreddit, we can help you improve your script so it is fully working for sharing with the community.
Q: Does Nucleus Co-Op work on Linux/Mac?
A: Nucleus Co-Op depends on a lot of Windows functions and APIs, at the moment it only works on Windows 7 and Up. If you are interested in porting Nucleus Co-Op to other operating systems please feel free to contact any of the developers.
Q: Where can I report a bug/issue?
A: Note that Nucleus Co-Op is a tool in development and still in Alpha. Expect bugs, glitches and weird things to happen. Help other people not have these things happen by checking for a solution here and submitting a [BUG REPORT] to the reddit as a new topic or in the comments here, if no-one else has brought it up.
A good [BUG REPORT] looks like this:
Thread name: [BUG REPORT] Simon falling off horse
BUG: Simon falls off his horse.
EXPECTED: Simon should not fall off his horse, right?
CAUSE: I'm pretty sure it's because I have my computer plugged into an auto-blow.
STEPS TO REPRODUCE
1.- Open up Simon Stays On His Horse: The Interactive Video Game of the Movie.
2.- Choose Co-Op and join with another player.
3.- Simon falls off his horse!!!
TYPE: Severe! The gameplay can't continue if Simon isn't on his horse! (Alternatively, Minor if the gameplay can continue but it's just annoying)
NUCLEUS OPTIONS: I played with 2 players using the vertical splitscreen (left and right) on one tv and 2 famicom controllers. I'm using the latest version
SYSTEM: I'm on Windows 3.1 with 4MB of RAM, a 2KHz CPU and no graphics card, playing on a projector. She's a monster.
I'd really like this to get fixed please thanks magic man! -Beanboy"
Keep in mind most scripts are made and tested using the latest legit steam versions of the game, so provide information about what version of the game you have.
Also provide a debug log of the NucleusCoop error, enable the debug log in Nucleus UI settings. You can also ask for support in our discord.
Q: Why is Nucleus Co-Op resizing the game instances incorrectly/the instances look stretched?
A: Try setting your monitor scale to 100% in your monitoTV resolution settings. It is also highly recommended that you add custom resolutions to all your monitors from your AMD/Nvidia/Intel panel (For example if you are using a monitor resolution of 1920x1080 add custom resolutions like 960x540, 1920x540, 960x1080, ect.) that way most games will be able to see and use those custom resolutions and the splitscreen will not look stretched(Example). Note that not all games support custom or widescreen resolutions. Also try disabling the Nucleus status bar in Nucleus UI settings.
Q: Why is Nucleus Co-Op throwing an error message that it can not find a file when launching a script?
A: A lot of scripts edit the game's .ini or .cfg files to force windowed and to adjust the game resolution, so make you sure you run your game at least once and change some graphic settings before running it via Nucleus Co-Op, that way you make sure the config files are getting generated first. If you are still getting the error after doing that, select the game in the UI, click on Game Options and select Delete UserProfile Config Path for all players. Also try disabling the Nucleus status bar in Nucleus UI settings.
Q: Where are my Nucleus Co-Op save files located?
A: Some scripts save to the Nucleus Co-Op enviroment folder located in C:\Users\YourUser\NucleusCoop, you can access each game save file via the Nucleus Co-Op UI too, select a game, click on Game Options and select Open UserProfile Save/Config Path. Other scripts just save in the same file path your regular game saves to.
Q: Why are my in-game frames per second low/better in one instance than in the others when using Nucleus Co-Op?
A: Remember that Nucleus Co-Op opens multiple instances of a game, so depending on the game this can be quite demanding for your PC, to improve FPS and performance try reducing graphics settings like textures and shadows, limit the FPS or unfocus all the game windows so that they get equal priority and the FPS even out, you can do this by Alt-Tabbing to a different window like the Nucleus app window, the game windows will still remain on top, you can also press the windows key+b in your keyboard to unfocus all instances.
Q: My Playstation/generic PC controller isn't working/isn't being detected by Nucleus Co-Op, how do I fix it?
A: Most Nucleus Co-Op Scripts only detect Xinput gamepads. Controllers that work best are Xbox 360, Xbox One and Logitech game controllers for minimum hassle. There are a few scripts that also support Direct Input gamepads but Xinput gamepads are generally easier to restrict to a specific game instance than Dinput gamepads.
If you are using PS4 gamepads try the app DS4windows, look in the settings for an option called "hide ds4 controller" - make sure it's ticked. To ensure it's definitely running in exclusive mode make sure ds4windows is set to load on windows startup, then turn your controllers on while windows is loading. Download the latest version here - https://ryochan7.github.io/ds4windows-site/
If you are using generic dinput gamepads the app XOutput is also useful to emulate xinput gamepads.
The app X360CE version 4 that creates virtual Xbox 360 Controllers inside your Windows operating system is also very useful to emulate xinput gamepads system wide.
Remember that some games detect both dinput and xinput gamepads so even if you are emulating a xinput gamepad the input could still not be restricted correctly because the game is now responding to both the emulated xinput gamepad and to the native direct input of your gamepad, that is why some apps like DS4windows have an "exclusive mode".
Also do not place x360ce xinput dlls in the Nucleus Co-Op files as this might interfere with Nucleus custom xinput dlls.
If you are using steam controllers try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wy4F2eqTXQ4
Q: Why is my keyboard not showing in the Nucleus Co-Op UI?
A: If a script is only showing gamepads and not keyboard icons that means the script only supports gamepads and doesn't support keyboards and mice in splitscreen yet.
Q: There are many keyboards and mice icons in the UI, how do I know which ones to use?
A: If you press a key in the keyboard you will use or move the mouse their corresponding icons in the Nucleus Co-Op UI will light up yellow. The app can detect keyboard macros that is why sometimes you will get multiple keyboard icons.
Q: Can you play splitscreen+LAN in different PCs?
A: Yes, if you run the game via Nucleus Co-Op in different PCs you can connect all instances you launch via LAN, for example you can have 2 players playing vertical splitscreen in one PC via Nucleus and connect to 2 others playing Nucleus splitscreen in a different PC via LAN. If the script uses steamworks multiplayer emulation you'll have to change the instances steam ids in the other PCs you'll connect to, otherwise the instances launched by Nucleus will use the same steam ids and won't be able to connect to each other. For that you can open the game script .js file in Nucleus scripts folder in the other PCs and add for example Game.PlayerSteamIDs = [ "76561198134585131","76561198131394153","76561198011792067","76561198043762785" ]; that will change the default ids of the first four instances you open in one PC via Nucleus Co-Op.
Q: Does Nucleus Co-Op have any malware?
A: Absolutely not.
Q: This project is Amazing where can I donate?
A: We don't have an unified donation platform yet but you can support the devs individually here: Zerofox, Ilyaki, Lucas Assis.
You can also donate to our main scripters that make the game scripts for Nucleus: Talos91/blackman9
submitted by blackman9 to nucleuscoop [link] [comments]

MAME 0.220

[ Removed by reddit in response to a copyright notice. ]
submitted by cuavas to emulation [link] [comments]

Working OpenCore Hackintosh AMD Ryzen 2600, GigBy B450m, 16 (2*8gb), RX 590 on macOS 10.15.4 Catalina! Dual Boot with Windows 10

Working OpenCore Hackintosh AMD Ryzen 2600, GigBy B450m, 16 (2*8gb), RX 590 on macOS 10.15.4 Catalina! Dual Boot with Windows 10

Working system on macOS 10.15.4
rEFInd bootloader.
Working iServices. Logged in into iCloud and things like iMessage and FaceTime work!

I used the AMD Vanilla guide with OpenCore, looking to https://khronokernel-2.gitbook.io/opencore-vanilla-desktop-guide/ and created a bootable USB and configure the config.plist for the EFI
Hardware and What's Working:
  • AMD Ryzen 5 2600, Gigabyte B450m, Corsair 16 gigs ram, Gigabyte RX 590
  • OpenCore, Dual boot with Windows 10 and macOS Catalina (10.15.4)
  • Realtek ethernet
  • USB ports mapped
  • Graphics via WhateverGreen
  • Realtek onboard headphones and lineout with AppleALC.
  • iMessage, iCloud, FaceTime, AppStore etc..
  • Bluetooth
  • Temperatures for my CPU and GPU etc and fan speeds.
What's not working:
To be honest, everything works like it should be. I did not experience weird bugs or glitches.
  • About my mac page says Intel i5 instead of my AMD CPU
  • Zooming in Adobe XD has lagg
  • RAM speeds are not the same as what is showing up in about my mac.

Issues I had:
My EFI partition was glitching, I don't know exactly how. But a long time ago I replaced my old SSD for Windows with an m.2 SSD. With a tool I copied the whole Windows OS from my SSD to the m.2 SSD. I guess my EFI partition was glichting due this, but I never felt any issues with it on Windows itself.
When I tried to install rEFInd, command prompt in Windows (for manual installation) was a pain, it gave errors, blah blah blah. After 4 days I deleted my whole EFI partition and created a new one with a bootable USB Windows installer. In the Windows Setup I pressed SHIFT+10 for the command prompt and made a new EFI partition. When that was fixed I could install rEFInd, it finally did show up in my BIOS! (If you need help with this please PM me on here or discord: 𝗠𝗶𝘁𝗰𝗵𝗲𝗹#7899*)*

Note: For editing the EFI partition on Windows you need to mount your EFI partition in CMD with admin rights. "mountvol S: /s" - Then I could access the volume with Explorer++ (also runned as admin)

  • iServices did not work, including iMessage and FaceTime
I had a problem in the beginning where it would hang on the 2FA verification for my Apple ID

Can't login into iCloud, hangs at 2FA
So I tried fixing my En0 with this guide: https://khronokernel-2.gitbook.io/opencore-vanilla-desktop-guide/post-install/post-install/iservices
When that was done it was still hanging. But iMessage and FaceTime worked after that. When I tried logging in via the AppStore it worked. So then I was logged in into the whole system.

Note: I did not tell all my problems here because it can be different on some other hackintosh pc's, like I needed to generate a custom serial code for my system with GenSMBIOS and configure it with ProperTree in my config.plist which was in my EFI partition for booting up my system.

  • "The disk you inserted was not readable by this computer."
It was not a glitch or anything but because I have a dual boot system it gave me constantly this error when booting into macOS

https://preview.redd.it/5fdvclbtz6q41.png?width=552&format=png&auto=webp&s=925b45445b14566cb9210ea0515507dc3cbba3ec
This is my Windows SSD which was mounting constantly on booting macOS, so I tried to disable mounting that disk on booting, which did not work for me. So I installed the kext DiskArbitrationFixup to disable this warning. But I am just ignoring the disk in my Finder and I can't delete files on it from macOS which is really good.

After all I was happy for me as a 17 years old (not native English speaker from The Netherlands) that my system worked perfectly (for how I liked it). It took me full one week time for this, but I guess my system it worth it :)

PS: That background, I made it myself a while ago as a redesign for Starbucks lol :)


Edit 1: My custom rEFInd GUI icons for Windows 10 and Shutdown (they were not updated for more than 4 years)
For those who wants my custom Windows 10 (and the maybe ugly shutdown icon for the rEFInd bootloader) here's the download link: https://mega.nz/#!bSBQjKZA!NpO_9CefMsiMRcClAix4D11sEPtRaK8mnJ7-Fic6aE4

My Cutom Windows 10 icon (and shutdown)

Edit 2: How to install rEFInd and apply a theme
I did not get rEFInd install via macOS.. I tried it serval times but it did not show up at all in my BIOS. I guess it was just a stupid thing in my Windows partition because I had issues with my EFI partition like I said earlier. So this tutorial is for dual boot users (with Windows). I will try to explain how you can also do this on macOS, I guess that will also work but it did not for me due the partition.

  1. So when you're in Windows, google for rEFInd download, and download it from the SourceForge website.
  2. Locate Command Prompt in the Start menu, right-click it, and select Run as Administrator. This action opens a Command Prompt window with administrative privileges.
  3. Type mountvol S: /S in the Administrator Command Prompt window. This makes the ESP/EFI accessible as drive S: from that window. (You can use a drive identifier other than S: if you like.)
  4. Change into the main rEFInd package directory (you do this with in command promt with "CD " <(without the ""), so that the refind subdirectory is visible when you type dir.
  5. Type xcopy /E refind S:\EFI\refind\ to copy the refind directory tree to the ESP's EFI directory. If you omit the trailing backslash from this command, xcopy will ask if you want to create the refind directory. Tell it to do so.
  6. Type S: to change to the ESP.
  7. Type cd EFI\refind to change into the refind subdirectory
  8. You may want to selectively delete some of the drivers in the drivers_x64, drivers_ia32, or drivers_aa64 directory, depending on your architecture and needs. Unnecessary drivers will slow the rEFInd start process, and can even cause the drivers you need to not work or cause a system crash.
  9. Type rename refind.conf-sample refind.conf to rename rEFInd's configuration file.
  10. Type bcdedit /set "{bootmgr}" path \EFI\refind\refind_x64.efi to set rEFInd as the default EFI boot program. Note that "{bootmgr}" is entered as such, including both the quotes and braces ({}). Also, change refind_x64.efi to refind_ia32.efi on systems with 32-bit EFIs. Such computers are rare, and most of them are tablets. Check your Windows bit depth to determine which binary you should use.
  11. If you like, type bcdedit /set "{bootmgr}" description "rEFInd description" to set a description (change rEFInd description as you see fit).
At this point, when you reboot, rEFInd should appear as your new default boot program. Or check your BIOS if it is there in your boot options. If it doesn't work for you, please go and search on the internet further because on the is so much more information on the official rEFInd site.

So if it works, you will see a ugly grey theme with the boot options.
I am using this theme: https://github.com/andersfischernielsen/rEFInd-minimal-black
  1. Locate your refind EFI directory. This is commonly /boot/EFI/refind though it will depend on where you mount your ESP and where rEFInd is installed.
  2. Create a folder called themes inside it, if it doesn't already exist
  3. Clone the theme into the themes folder you just created
  4. To enable the theme add include themes/rEFInd-minimal-black/theme.conf at the end of refind.conf.
You can edit the .conf files with Notepad++ on Windows and TextEdit on macOS
If you want to use my icons for a better Windows icon (and shutdown icon) replace my icons with the icons in /boot/EFI/refind/themes/rEFInd-minimal-black/icons folder.

!! TO MOUNT YOUR EFI PARTITION USE EXPLORER++ ON WINDOWS AND CLOVER ON YOUR HACKINTOSH !!

For those who want to do this on macOS, I'll copy the original instructions so it is clearer for you than for myself. But it's about the same with installing the theme. The only thing you need to do is mounting your EFI with clover. The tutorial:
  1. Open a Terminal window in which you'll type the following commands.
  2. If you want to install rEFInd on your ESP, you must first mount it. The easy way to do this is to use the mountesp script that comes with rEFInd. When you run it, the script should tell you where the ESP was mounted. You can do the job manually by typing mkdir /Volumes/ESP followed by sudo mount -t msdos /dev/disk0s1 /Volumes/ESP. Note that you may need to change /dev/disk0s1 to something else if your ESP is at an unusual location. Type diskutil list or use a tool such as my GPT fdisk (gdisk) to examine your partition table to find your ESP if necessary.
  3. Type sudo mkdir -p /Volumes/ESP/efi/refind to create a suitable directory for rEFInd. If you want to place rEFInd on the macOS root partition, you should adjust the pathname appropriately, as in /efi/refind. Alternatively, you can use the Finder to create the directory.
  4. Copy the files in the refind subdirectory of the rEFInd binary package to the like-named directory you've just created. You can do this in the Finder or by typing sudo cp -r refind/* /Volumes/ESP/efi/refind/ in your Terminal window after changing into the rEFInd package's main directory.
  5. Remove the files for the versions of rEFInd you're not using, as in sudo rm Volumes/esp/efi/refind/refind_ia32.efi Volumes/esp/efi/refind/refind_aa64.efi on a Mac with a 64-bit EFI or sudo rm /Volumes/ESP/efi/refind/refind_x64.efi Volumes/esp/efi/refind/refind_aa64.efi on a Mac with a 32-bit EFI.
  6. Optionally, remove the drivers directories for the architectures you're not using—/Volumes/ESP/efi/refind/drivers_ia32 or /Volumes/ESP/efi/refind/drivers_x64, as appropriate. (No Mac uses an ARM CPU, so you'd also remove /Volumes/ESP/efi/refind/drivers_aa64.
  7. I strongly recommend that you remove some or all of the drivers for the architecture you are using; if you don't need them, they'll slow down the start process and can even hang rEFInd if a driver is buggy and it encounters a damaged filesystem. See the page on drivers for more on this topic. Note that Apple's firmware includes its own HFS+ driver, so the HFS+ driver provided with rEFInd is useless on Macs. Normally, you only need a filesystem driver if you're dual-booting with Linux, and in that case you need only the driver for the filesystem that holds the Linux kernel.
  8. If this is your first installation, type sudo mv /Volumes/ESP/efi/refind/refind.conf-sample /Volumes/ESP/efi/refind/refind.conf (adjusting the path as necessary) to rename the sample configuration file so that it will serve as a real configuration file. (Again, you can do this with the Finder, if you prefer.)
  9. "Bless" rEFInd by typing one of the following two commands:
  • If you're installing rEFInd on the ESP, type sudo bless --mount /Volumes/ESP --setBoot --file /Volumes/ESP/efi/refind/refind_x64.efi --shortform, adjusting the mount point and exact path to the file as appropriate for your installation.
  • If you're installing rEFInd to an ordinary HFS+ volume, type sudo bless --setBoot --folder /efi/refind --file /efi/refind/refind_x64.efi. (Adjust the path and filename as necessary if you're placing rEFInd somewhere else or using the 32-bit version.)
  • This is the step that's likely to fail if your system is booted with SIP active.
  1. If you don't want to reboot immediately after installing rEFInd, you may optionally unmount the ESP by typing sudo umount /dev/disk0s1 or sudo umount /Volumes/ESP. This step isn't strictly required, but if you want to keep the ESP out of your directory tree, it can be useful.
When you reboot, your Mac should bring up the rEFInd menu, and should continue to do so thereafter. If you make changes that break this association, you can re-run the bless command (if necessary, restoring the rEFInd files first). This might be necessary after installing system updates from Apple or if you upgrade rEFInd to a newer version.
If you're replacing rEFIt, you may discover that rEFInd works on the first boot, but the system reverts back to rEFIt or a direct boot to macOS on the second boot. To fix this problem, you can remove the rEFItBlesser program, which is located at /Library/StartupItems/rEFItBlesser. This program attempts to keep rEFIt set as the default boot loader, but it also has the purpose of protecting the computer from launching the wrong OS after waking from sleep. If you want that protection, my suggestion is to install rEFIt and rEFItBlesser and then replace the refit.efi file with refind_x64.efi or refind_ia32.efi (renaming it to refit.efi). Used in this way, rEFInd will still look for its own configuration file, refind.conf, so you'll need to move it but not rename it. If you don't move the icons from the rEFInd package, your icons will continue to look like rEFIt icons, and you'll be missing the new icons for specific Linux distributions that rEFInd provides. One final caveat: It's conceivable that rEFItBlesser is what's causing filesystem corruption for some users, so if you've been having this problem with rEFIt, it might be worth disabling this program and not using it with rEFInd.

I dont know why but I made a quick TikTok haha

https://reddit.com/link/fsy48b/video/gpm5han3a9q41/player


submitted by Mitchhhel to hackintosh [link] [comments]

Survey about online dating

Are you over 18, out as non-binary and have tried online dating? Then please take my 15 min research survey.
My name is Kyle (they/them) and I’m a non-binary undergraduate student at Bowdoin college. I’m doing research on the experiences of out trans and non-binary people while online dating and I would love to have your input!
If you are interested in sharing your thoughts with me and want to be entered to win a $25 gift card please take my survey at: https://bowdoincollege.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_d0huHiLyk5MquR7
This survey will also ask you if you are interested in doing a follow up interview which is totally optional.
If you really don't like surveys, but would be interested in just a 1 hour video interview about your feelings on online dating, go here instead https://bowdoincollege.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_cUy7rm2KxHEOs6N Those who I interview will be given a $10 gift card as a token of my appreciation.
If you have any questions, please feel free to send a dm!

Informed Consent Information
I am asking you to participate in a research study titled “Exploratory Research on the Experiences of Transgender and Non-Binary People Using Online Dating Services”. This study is being led by Kyle Putnam (They/Them), a student in the Sociology department at Bowdoin College. The Faculty Advisor for this study is Professor Theo Greene (He/Him) of the Sociology department at Bowdoin College.
What the study is about
The purpose of this research survey is to better understand the specific experiences of out transgender and non-binary people have while online dating. This research will ask you about what online dating platforms you have used, what experiences you have had while using them (both positive and negative), and what information about your gender you choose to share while online dating.
What we will ask you to do
In this online survey you will be asked a series of questions about the topics listed above as well as information about your gender, age and sexuality. This survey should take you approximately 15 minutes to complete. At the end of the survey you will be directed to a separate survey which will ask for your email if you would like to be contacted about participating in a follow up interview on this research topic. More information about this interview will be provided if you indicate you are interested.
Privacy/Confidentiality/Data Security
To protect your privacy, data from this survey will contain no identifying features. If you choose to enter your email address for a follow up interview, your email will be stored separately from your survey data. Survey data and email addresses will be downloaded and stored on a private, password protected computer.
If you have questions
The main researcher conducting this study is Kyle Putnam (They/Them) an undergraduate student at Bowdoin College. If you have questions about this survey before, during, or after you take it, you may contact Kyle Putnam at [email protected]. If you have any questions or concerns regarding your rights as a subject in this study, you may contact the Institutional Review Board (IRB) Chair, Scott Sehon at (207)725-3753 or at [email protected]. If Professor Sehon is not available, you can contact the IRB Administrator Jean Harrison at (207)798-7056 or at [email protected].
submitted by EducationalDecision to NonBinary [link] [comments]

Flashing TUYA Smart RGBW Bulb with HAA firmware making it “Works with HomeKit”

Few things at start ————————— - Home Accessory Architecture (HAA) is firmware from RavenSystem for ESP8266/8285 based smart devices (which are almost all). Link to github https://github.com/RavenSystem/esp-homekit-devices
Steps ———
Raspbian Stretch Lite install •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• - fresh install of raspbian stretch lite on a SD card using balenaEtcher. This is important for many dependencies required by tuya-convert. https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/ - create wpa_supplicant.conf and ssh flies in root of SD card - insert in Pi ZeroW...update and upgrade after boot
Tuya-Convert Install ••••••••••••••••••••••
Noted ————
submitted by Mazhar67 to HomeKit [link] [comments]

MAME 0.220

[ Removed by reddit in response to a copyright notice. ]
submitted by cuavas to cade [link] [comments]

HOW TO: Install BLTOUCH V3.1 and Marlin 2.0 on Ender 3/Pro With ONLY a mini USB and the included USB ISP cable!

When I say included, I mean the USB ISP cable with the 10 to 6 pin adapter that is included with the Creality branded BLTOUCH kit. I also needed a mini USB to USB type A cable that was not included. If you are well versed in Arduino and flashing firmwares to 3d printers, this write up isn't for you. This is for the total noob (like me) that has never done anything like this before.

I just went through this process, and I could not find a single source that had all of the information I needed to get this done using *only* the hardware I had on hand. I didn't want to buy an Arduino Uno or a Raspberry Pi or anything else, and that seemed to make things harder, but really I just needed to learn a few things about how the Arduino IDE software works. This is being written from a 100% noob perspective, so feel free to correct any faults. Link to BLTOUCH I ordered on Amazon (US)
So, here we go.
First of all, you can follow the included creality manual that shows how to physically install the bltouch kit on the Ender 3/Pro. Ignore the software part, because we will be using a much better version of software called Marlin (version 2.). Once you have installed the bltouch and removed the unnecessary end stop switch, leave the motherboard exposed so you can access the 6 pin connector that you use to flash firmware. At this time your Ender 3 or 3 Pro should be turned off and unplugged-it does not need to be plugged in to the main power cable to flash the firmware.
Once you have that done and the motherboard is exposed, we can start with the needed software. First, download the firmware file for your specific printer (in my case it was Ender 3 pro BL touch +ISP cable instruction") from this website (creality3d.com). Once you do that, unzip the file to a convenient place. Then go in the included folder and un-rar the next folder called ISP.rar, then open the folder called ISP, then unzip the folder called progisp+1.72. zip. In this folder, there will be be another folder called progisp+1.72, but it will have some Chinese characters after the name. You need to rename this folder for progisp to work! Apparently the Chinese characters throw it off or something, and cause an error. So rename it progisp or whatever you want, as long as the Chinese characters are removed. We are not using the included firmware with this package, only the application that is inside your newly renamed filed, called progisp.exe. Remeber the location of this, because we will need it in a bit.
Next, we are going to setup our firmware. Go to this website (github) and click the "clone or download button on the right side of the page, then click "Download ZIP" in the dropdown. This is for Marlin 2.0 firmware that is preconfigured for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro, so you don't have to do any editing in Arduino of this firmware. It makes the process (much) easier in my opinion. You can unzip the downloaded file and put it somewhere easy to access (I used my desktop for everything).
Now, we need to download the Arduino IDE software. Once installed, you can open the program and go through initial setup to get to the software. Close the software when you are at the home screen.
*********I am not sure if this step is completely necessary or not, but this is how I did it:
-Now we flash a bootloader. I used this bootloader file. If you haven't downloaded from github before (I hadn't), right click on the "RAW" button and click "save link as...", then save the file to your preferred location. It will save as a .hex file which we will flash to the motherboard. Now, you can connect the USB ISP cable that came with the bltouch kit to your Ender 3/Pro motherboard, and into your laptop. You will need the cable itself, as well as the 10 pin to 6 pin adapter board that came with the kit. The included instructions show you how to plug it in-in my case, the long gray cable from the USB ISP points away from the motherboard when plugged in correctly. It's easier to plug in if you unplug the screen cable first, which is the large cable right next to the 6 pin connector.
Now, with Arduino closed, we open the progisp.exe file that came with the Ender 3 firmware file we downloaded and unzipped,unrar'ed, and renamed. Progisp will open on your computer. In the upper left hand corner of the display, click the drop down under "select chip", and choose "ATmega1284P". Then click the "..." button in the lower right corner of the screen, and enter these values: Low Value: DC; High Value: D6; EXTValue: FD; and LockValue: FF, then click "write", and close the popup window so you are back at the progisp home screen. In the upper left corner of the screen there is a window that says "Program State"-In the box below that PRG ISP should be in color-this will let you know that the motherboard is connected properly-as well as the blue light on the motherboard. On the home screen select on these options: Chip Erase, Program FLASH, and Program Fuse. Now, in the upper right corner click "load flash", and select the .hex bootloader file we just downloaded from github, and then click the "Auto" button. A green progress bar will show, and you the message box will give you a successful message. For now, you can close progisp (but we will need it again in a moment (my understanding is that you should not run progisp and arduino at the same time, that's why I keep jumping around).
Next, we unplug the USBISP cable, and plug in a mini USB cable directly to the USB port on the front of the Ender's electronics case and into your computer. Then, we will navigate to the unzipped folder that contains the Marlin firmware. It should be called Ender-3-bltouch-installation-master. Open that, then open the next folder called Marlin 2.0-Ender 3 BLTOUCH, and now open the folder called "Marlin". Inside of it there is a file called "marlin.ino". Double click that file and it will automatically open Arduino IDE, and you will be at the firmware editor screen.
From here, go to Tools and Manage libraries and add the U8glib Library (Make sure the library is called U8glib-it was at the bottom of the list for me). Once installed go to Go to Sketch, Include Library, find and select your u8glib. Then go to File, Preferences, select "Show Verbose Output During": Compilation and Upload, and enter this URL in Additional Boards Manager URLs:
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Lauszus/Sanguino/mastepackage_lauszus_sanguino_index.json 
Click "OK", and click Tools, Board, Board Manager, and search for "Sanguino" and install it, then close boards manager. Now, go back to tools, and select:
Board: Sanguino
Processor: ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16Mhz)
Port: Select the port your USB is connected to the printer with-mine only showed one port (COM3 in my case)
Programmer: AVRISP mkII
Once you have done that, click Sketch, then verify/compile. This will take a few minutes, then when it completes go to Sketch, and click "Export compiled binary". When the software says "Done Compiling" at the bottom (the logging area), you need to find the output folder for the firmware. The log will say the following:
Compiling core...
Using precompiled core
Linking everything together...
Directory line 1
Directory line 2
Directory line 3
You need to scroll horizontally on directory line 3 and the last file will be C:/Users.......marlin.ino.hex.
Navigate to that file in file explorer, and copy and paste the .hex file into a place that is easy to find (like your desktop).
Now, we can close Arduino and unplug the mini USB cable and plug the USBISP cable back into the motherboard and computer you are using, and open progisp.exe just like we did before.
Select chip again in the top left if needed, then click the "..." button again, and make sure the same values are input (DC, D6,FD,FF), and click "Write", then close the pop up. Now, select the same options as we used previously (Chip Erase, Program FLASH, and Program Fuse), and click "load flash" in the top right corner, select the marlin.ino.hex file we placed somewhere convenient, and click "Auto". When the program is done flashing, unplug the USBISP cable from the motherboard and you can plug in your printer to the power cable and power it on.
After a few seconds you should boot into the Marlin 2.0 home screen, and you can now configure your bltouch!
If following this guide helps you out, let me know! This is exactly the process I followed and I am now (finally) running Marlin 2.0 with a working BLTouch. If this is horrible, let me know that as well and maybe I can fix it! I know it's a little lengthy, but it's really not a *hard* process per se. Anyway, hope this helps someone.
Here are some of the websites I pieced this information together from, in case you want to check them out:
https://github.com/3d-printing-canada/Ender-3-BL-Touch-Installation
https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-with-marlin-how-to-install-marlin-firmware-on-your-ender-3/
https://www.reddit.com/ender3/comments/cfmbdy/howto_installing_a_bootloader_to_an_ender_3_pro/
https://howchoo.com/g/mge1mdfkzjv/ender-3-bootloader-firmware-update-marlin
https://www.fission3d.com/post/flash-bootloader-and-install-firmware-with-raspberry-pi
Special thanks to this sub, and to u/apristel for the final link that tied everything together. Time for a beer LOL.
submitted by theblobAZ to Ender3Pro [link] [comments]

Success To Be [OC, M.2 DualBoot, AMD R5, RX 5700 XT, 16GB RAM, BCM94360CD]

Success To Be [OC, M.2 DualBoot, AMD R5, RX 5700 XT, 16GB RAM, BCM94360CD]
--OUT OF DATE--

OpenCore AMD DualBoot Hackintosh! This would absolutely not have been possible without this community and especially Khronokernel! Many, many thanks - this is my first Hackintosh and self-built PC!! :D
https://preview.redd.it/ciem302abff41.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=e8d551bec88509a6ff164d27c528dde794a3070a

Components

See also: OpenCore config below!
Part Model
Motherboard MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4
CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8GHz 6C
Video Card PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT 8GB Red Devil
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 2 x 8 GB DDR4-3200C14
Storage ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB M.2-2280 NVMe SSD
Power Supply Corsair HX750 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX
CPU Cooler Noctua NH-D15S
Case Fan 2x Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140 mm
Thermal Paste Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, 1g
Case Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower
Monitor AOC 24G2U/BK 24" 1920x1080 144Hz
Keyboard Apple MB110LL/B Wired
Mouse Logitech G Pro Wireless Optical
Wifi/BT Card via PCIe Fenvi BCM94360CD, AliExpress (Fenvi FV-A436CD)
USB 3.0 PCIe Card Some cheap thing (no brand found?!) I had laying around, not expected to work on macOS, good on Win10
PCPartPicker Part List (without BCM94360CD) About $1600, most parts - especially the expensive ones - where bought on sale, though!
I had these goals in mind:
  • Hackintosh, of course!
  • DualBoot
  • 2K Performance (Everyday PCing to AAA Gaming) with proper heat management, unlike Apple
  • Longevity, my previous Main, a MacBookPro 13'' (Early 2011), still flourishes! :) Good boi!
  • Low noise, hence the Powercolor Graphics Card and the beefy NH-D15S (also for performance)
  • As little dust as possible (see case)
  • As small as possible - without compromising on goals
  • As little RGB as possible (sorry.), which turns out to be difficult
Max credit goes here and here!! Also, here, here, here, here and here. Totally solid work, guys! This Project was started on December, 1st 2019. Now it is February, 7th 2020!

Features

  • Vanilla Hackintosh
  • OpenCore 0.5.5
  • DualBoot on one 2TB M.2 SSD with Win10
  • AMD Ryzen 5 Processor with RX 5700 XT (Navi 10) and 16GB RAM on MSI B450
  • Wifi and BT via BCM94360CD over PCIe (Windows compatible)
  • Sleep/wake works
  • Fixed iServices, even though I probably won't use them...
  • I consider my goals met.
  • Mapped USB ports, see below.

Known issues

  • Bluetooth is always "on", but not working. Probably USB Mapping; Resolved here.
  • Internal drives shown as externals (yellow-orange). Solved..
  • Black screen when setting resolution to 1080i instead of 1080p in system preferences. Minor issue.
  • Cannot boot into Recovery mode. Solved.
  • Won't sleep after set time (system prefs). "HibernateMode" set to "Auto" in config & port mapping KEXTs, see below.
  • Cannot adjust volume of built-in-monitor speaker (DisplayPort)~~~~. Solved with software.
  • Some Motherboard RGB issues - Solved by USB Mapping.
  • Choosing to boot into Windows via Bios (F11) - I don't consider this much of an issue.
I will try to solve these issues in separate threads and update this one, but any help much appreciated! Any comments - e.g. on Kexts; do I need them all?! - are welcome too...

Not tested yet

  • Microphone jack on case.
  • FileVault - don't need that, probably won't test

Advice for interested people


  • -- PLEASE BE ADISED THAT THERE ARE NEWER VERSIONS OF OPENCORE AND THAT THE PATH BELOW (ESPECIALLY THE CONFIG CHANGES) MIGHT NOT WORK WITH OC VERSIONS AFTER 0.5.5!! -- For a working EFI folder for OC 0.5.6 see in the comments.

My Hackintosh configuration

  • OpenCore 0.5.5
  • macOS Catalina 10.15.3
  • The following EFI is on my OpenCore stick. There is also the latest macOS on there. If you go for DualBoot, keep this stick around & updated as Windows seems to be able to mess around with your EFI... With this stick you'll always be able to boot your Hackintosh and repair its EFI partition.
  • FULL EFI FOLDER: See in comments ("PlatformInfo" has to be populated in config.plist - see below... You can copy over the info from your current config. Also, my changes in DeviceProperties/Add might be a problem for your storage setup.)
  • OpenCore EFI files:
  • Config.plist: http://www.filedropper.com/configreddit EDIT: See comments (only use if exactly same components as me; see below. Change according to OpenCore Guide!! [PlatformInfo removed; Populate this yourself like this!] I'd advice you to make your own config.plist.) Changed with ProperTree strictly according to the OpenCore Guide. Differences to sample.plist:
    • Probably outdated: All of the following modifications are for OC 0.5.5. If you are on a later version of OC it is likely that these have changed!
    • 5 initial Warnings removed.
    • DeviceProperties/Add: Removed "PciRoot(0x0)/Pci(0x1b,0x0)" and "PciRoot(0x0)/Pci(0x2,0x0)" as well as their children
      • Added Key "PciRoot(0x0)/Pci(0x1,0x1)/Pci(0x0,0x0)" as child of "Add" with Type "Directory". Added child beneath the just made child with name "built-in", type "Data" and value "01000000". To address drive issue above, see here.
    • Populated this config.plist with OC snapshot function of ProperTree (CMD/CTRL+R, point to EFI/OC/) . Adds KEXTs and SSDT.
    • Kernel/Emulate: Removed "CpuidMask" and "CpuidData" (were blank anyway).
    • Kernel/Patch: Ryzen/Threadripper(17h) Patch applied.
    • Kernel/Quirks:
      • "DummyPowerManagement" set to True
      • "ExternalDiskIcons" set to True
      • "PanicNoKextDump" set to True
      • "PowerTimeoutKernelPanic" set to True
      • "XhciPortLimit" set to True (set to False after USB mapping in step F)
    • Misc/Boot:
      • "HibernateMode" set "Auto" after USB mapping
    • Misc/Debug: Nothing changed.
    • Misc/Security:
      • "AllowNvramReset" set to True
      • "AllowSetDefault" set to True
      • "AuthRestart" left False
      • "RequireSignature" set to False
      • "RequireVault" set to False
      • "ScanPolicy" set to 0
    • Misc/Tools: Shell.efi added by the OC snapshot function.
    • NVRAM/7C436110-AB2A-4BBB-A880-FE41995C9F82:
      • "boot-args" set to "-v keepsyms=1 debug=0x100 agdpmod=pikera alcid=1"
      • "nvda_drv" set to <>
      • "prev-lang:kbd" set to my preferences. (Use "656E2D55 533A30" = HEX for keyboard layout "en-US:0"; find your own with a TEXT to HEX converter and this.
    • NVRAM/"WriteFlash" set to True,
    • PlatformInfo: Populated with info according to the Guide with GenSMBIOS. Went with a "iMacPro1,1". Found "Purchase Date not Validated" numbers after about 3 (x10) times.
    • UEFI/Drivers: Drivers auto-added by the OC snapshot function.
    • UEFI/Input:
      • "PointerSupport" changed to "Data" and set to <>
      • "PointerSupportMode" changed to "Data" and set to <>
    • UEFI/Protocols/"ConsoleControl" set to True
    • UEFI/Quirks:
      • "ProvideConsoleGop" set to True
      • "RequestBootVarFallback" set to True
  • Bios settings strictly according to the OpenCoreGuide:
    • Disabled:
      • "Fast Boot"
      • "CSM" [UEFI instead]
    • Enabled:
      • "EHCI/XHCI Hand-off"
      • "Above 4G decoding"

My process (only successful part)

(You'll need 3 USB sticks! 2 with at least 4GB, 1 with at least 8GB. I am not sure, whether the Linux Part is really necessary, or if the partitioning can also be done from the macOS or Win10 stick...)
A) The basic build
  1. Built PC.
  2. Installed Windows 10 from USB stick [8GB] (made from Microsoft Media Creation Tool, instructions here, don't forget to install in UEFI mode - see second link in 3.!). Did some fan adjustments in BIOS too... Keep that stick!
  3. Set up Windows 10, installed drivers (see here, here).
  4. Installed Python 3.7! (For SSDTTime, below. Don't get Python 3.8.1!)
Do not set up Windows too much yet, it will be deleted completely and reinstalled again.

B) Creating the OpenCore Stick
  1. Followed Snazzy Lab's Video (read its description!) to create the OpenCore stick, everything on the above Win10: (useful additional help: khronokernel and VanillaAMD and Github)
    1. (Maybe format your stick to GUID HFS+ via Linux or Mac first... See Github.)
    2. Downloaded latest macOS via gibMacOs.bat (Recovery package!) (Admin privileges needed!). Update 7zip first for step B)1.II. and B)1.III. and use a Lan connection!
    3. Made a bootable install of that via Makeinstall.bat (Number + o) (Admin privileges needed!).
    4. Opened the EFI folder on the now newly made USB stick.
    5. Deleted everything (3 files) in EFI/OC/Drivers/, except FwRuntimeServices.efi.
    6. Deleted everything (2 files) in EFI/OC/Tools/.
  2. Put in the following drivers from AppleSupportPkg on the stick to EFI/OC/Drivers/:
    1. ApfsDriverLoader.efi
    2. VBoxHfs.efi
  3. Put KEXT and SSDT and Drivers on the stick:
    1. For troubleshooting afterwards - while booting from the stick - consult: khronokernel/troubleshooting!!
    2. Put the above KEXTs on the stick, all in EFI/OC/Kexts (instructions: khronokernel, more kexts: onedrive).
    3. Put the following SSDTs on my stick (into OC/ACPI)
      1. See above! SSDTTime not needed.
    4. Created config.plist with ProperTree (search with crtl+f!) (full instructions: khronokernel plus config documentation mentioned above in B)3.a.!!):
      1. Renamed "simple.plist" in the downloaded OpenCorePkg folder to "config.plist" and copied it over to the stick into EFI/OC/.
      2. Open Propertree.bat (Admin privileges maybe needed!) and opened said config.plist via the menu bar "File" of proper tree.
      3. Created my own config via "OC snapshot" in the menu bar "File", navigated to EFI/OC of my stick.
      4. Patched my config with patches.plist from AMD_Vanilla (17h): Open simultaneously in ProperTree. (See Snazzy Laps Video and this on how!)
    5. Edited config.plist, followed Vanilla Guide/amd-config.plist (partly later because of errors): See above!
    6. Saved via menu bar "File".

C) Created bootable Linux stick and made partitions on my internal SSD for dual boot (I was recommended this procedure here), install macOS:
  1. Still in Windows 10: Followed the Ubuntu Tutorial to make another stick.
  2. Shut down Windows 10.
  3. Booted again, with the OpenCore Stick connected, temporarily changed the boot partition with F11 and chose my stick (some of the above mentioned config.plist changes were applied AFTER this step, because certain errors occured):
  4. Got to the boot picker and reset NVRAM.
  5. Restarted the same way and chose the macOS installer (Step 3).
  6. Went into the macOS installer's Disk Manager. Formatted the whole internal SSD (maybe ExFat? Probably doesn't matter) and made two partitions for macOS (APFS) and Windows (don't remember what, maybe ExFat?, doesn't matter)
  7. Exit the Disk Manager and enter the installer. Install macOS. Maybe create a backup of that.
  8. Do this: Especially the EFI copying! How to mount the EFI partition on macOS.
  9. Shut down.

E) Created Windows:
  1. Booted into Linux, via Stick.
  2. Got synaptic and hfsprogs for Linux:
    1. Searched the Programs for "Software & Updates". Enable second option: Community-maintained free and open-source software (universe). "Close" this window and let it do it's download.
    2. Opened Terminal (Ctrl+Alt+T), entered:
      1. sudo apt-get update
      2. sudo apt-get install synaptic
      3. sudo apt-get install hfsprogs (not needed anymore?!)
  3. Searched for "Disks". Designated the 200MB partition from above as EFI (I believe via the cog wheels > Format Partition). Close that window.
  4. Searched in progs for "GParted":
    1. Format the second, partition to NTFS.
    2. (You should see three partitions on your internal SSD: EFI, Mac (APFS - probably unrecognised) and Windows)
  5. Shut down Linux.
  6. Boot with Windows Stick connected into the Windows installer.
  7. Install Windows on that NTFS partition.
  8. (Mac and Windows will write their EFI on the same partition! Keep at least your OpenCore Stick!!)
F) Finished. Set up both machines (Windows: here and here) completely!! :D
  • Mapped my ports by removing the XHC0 controller with this kext completely (lost two ports in the process, but that's ok) and (optionally) mapped the PTXH controller with this kext (you might have to adjust this!). For why, see here. See here and here, too!
  • Disabled OpenCore logging: Values set to 0. (In config above not included!)
  • Found "valid" SMBIOS numbers, fixed iServices according to this. (In config above not included!)
  • Didn't enable FileVault or OpenCore Security Features yet... Probably won't.
submitted by CrayCJ to hackintosh [link] [comments]

Odyssey Movie Playlist Project - King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard

THE ODYSSEY PROJECT

What is this claptrap?
A movie/playlist I created after getting a little too deep into the Gizzverse theory. Let this stand as a monument to my folly - I don't think the Gizzverse is a cohesive, narrative thing, but what I did manage to do was create a very nice, flowing playlist that follows a narrative, using the clues, lyrical links and musical motifs presented by the band to take us on a vast, mystical journey throughout the Universe.
If you're on this page, you've either come from my YouTube Videos, been sent here via myself dropping you a link, or stumbled upon this post after clicking my profile. Either way, welcome.
The Odyssey project consists of 5 movies, entirely soundtracked by the incredible music of King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard. Movie might be the wrong word to describe what is going on here, however, as the playlist came first, with the visual content added later - inspired by the stories, themes, vibes and voodoo put forward by the boys. Where the band have released a clip for a given song, I've used it, and they are scattered throughout the project like golden nuggets of hilarity and, more often than not, lo-fi psychedelic insanity. Where the work was up to me, I've tried very hard to match the mood and theme of the song in question, covering a diverse mix of visual content, all of which comes with a healthy sprinkling of my own brand of psychedelia.
So, you have two options to dig into this glorious mess.
Here you can find the Odyssey Project Download Links (via Google Drive), a folder hosted online with the files ready to be grabbed and owned forever. This is the best option by far, provided you have the space and bandwidth to download the admittedly large files.
The other option is to scroll below, and click the links one by one. This will open the movie for a streaming 'preview', essentially YouTube, which, whilst convenient, the quality suffers from compression and is unable to be loaded into a playlist etc, since it's coming straight from Google Drive.
Book 1 - Failures of Humanity and the Rise of the Altered Beast (1:28:53)
Book 2 - The Open Door, The Battle Of Gods, and the Rats of Mars (1:26:12)
Book 3 - Microtonal Hellscape and Han Tyumi's Vomitverse (1:07:50)
Book 4 - Crumbling Castles, Dream-escapes, and the Fall of Polygondwanaland (1:19:13)
Book 5 - The Altered Plan of the Consciousness Can (1:26:34)
If the book names above mean nothing to you, or you want to dig in a little more into the whys and hows and whens of what I've done, and what this narrative could possibly be, keep scrolling. I've written up a paragraph or so to explain the core concepts of each book, which may help or confuse. Either way,
Enjoy.


Book 1 - Failures of Humanity and the Rise of the Altered Beast
(9.33gb, 1:28:53 runtime, mainly PMDB/Mind Fuzz/MotU content)
CONCEPT;
The failures of humanity are mounting, pressing, and inevitable, given the human races' lack of desire to embrace anything but the status quo. We slip into our extinction with barely a pause or whimper, willingly ignorant of the issues we face - social, environmental, and, it turns out, existential... The Altered Beast rises as a consequence of an Altered world, marking the start of a new era, where humanity can no longer ignore the damage we have done, or the bleak future we face.
TRACKLIST;
The Failures of Humanity
Beginner's Luck - "...The Beginners Luck, now don't mess it up..."
Sense -"It's in vogue, to be feckless, when it comes to the mother taking care of us. I know it's so conventional, but it don't make no sense at all. But in fact, it's a pattern, everything I hear will always make me ashen..."
Bone -"...If Heaven is a place I know, I won't be taking my bones..."
Paper Mache Dream Balloon - "...Are you eluding, that I'm brooding? Moping around on my own. Stuck in a daydream, under a moonbeam, head on my pillow at home..."
NGRI -"I've awoken from my slumber, I was dreaming 'bout a flood, covered in my blood. Now my pits are getting sweaty, it's a sign I have to go, back to where I know..."
Empty - "Empty. Life is nothing like it used to be, feeling so empty..."
Hot Water - "...Echoes ending, Whispers trending, Heat is coming, everybody's stranded in..."
Bitter Boogie - "...I wouldn't like to say I didn't warn ya'..."
Slow Jam 1 - "...And when it feels like coming on, Boy it makes it hard to talk, for me..."
Satan Speeds Up - "...And when I stop to think of all that we've done, Satan's at the door..."
Her and I |Slow Jam 2| - "It wouldn't hurt to give you more, of my love. The sun shone through into a wave of thought..."
Billabong Valley -"...Bloodthirsty tendancies, Mad Dog Morgan. He never gave a warning..."
Anoxia -"...We waste no time, leaving in light, a different sun bakes the breeze tonight. My mind wanders, alone..."
Am I In Heaven? - "Got ideas in my brain about the end of the world that I won't even say. When all the bricks that built our brain have been turned into sand by the eternal wave. Oh, if we save her, we'll live on a star. Mother nature made everybody else so far..."
Paper Mache - Instrumental
The Rise of the Altered Beast
A New World - "As soon as the dust settles, you can see, a new world in place of where the old one had been. Your skin is crawling with dry, crusted mud, and your naked feet are wet in a pool of blood..."
Altered Beast I - "...He came from underneath, I met an Altered Beast..."
Alter Me I -"...For all it's revulsion, and warp, and taboo, a part of you wants to be Altered, too..."
Altered Beast II - "...What harm could a mere mortal like you do? I am the Golden Wolf, and you are caribou..."
Alter Me II - "...Your dumb human head is filled with naivete; your impending fate is to be one with me..."
Altered Beast III - "...Hair on my skin, and I'm feeling beastly, Feel it trickle in, a new life in me... ...I see you, and I can see right through, I see you, and I will take you to my Altered world..."
Alter Me III - "Altered Beast, Alter Me!"
Altered Beast IV - "...The sole thing that will make your void obsolete, is to find someone new, some sapid fresh meat... ...I think I see, an Altered Beast, Inside Me! I am an Altered Beast!"
Mr Beat - "...Happy days seem so absurd, lightning that's unlikely heard, Nova sunshine while I nap, making all my dreams so sad..."
Evil Death Roll - "...The night is young - full of sin, time to slither away again, You can see our history hanging on a Knife, so let's start killing things. 'Cos you started everything. And let's start severing limbs..."
Life/Death - "Are you you? Are you me? Or someone inbetween? You lost track inside the labyrinthine. You lost your will, and your sanity; you certainly lost your humanity. In life, you have taken much more than your worth, now it's your turn to give back to the earth. May you return to the ground and ossify, it's time for you to die, die, die."

Book 2 - The Open Door, The Battle Of Gods, and the Rats of Mars
(8.88gb, 1:26:12 runtime, mainly Nonagon/Mind Fuzz/MotU/ITRN content)
CONCEPT;
Powers beyond our current understanding battle for supremacy in this era of decline. But before we are ready to understand the forces that are, that be, we must understand the power that is - The power of the Nonagon. Wild and bizarre and infinite, the Door to this realm is opened, and from Hell the demons pour forth. First among the new rulers of a ruined world is the Lightning Lord, supreme in power and arrogance, and his battle with the Hell-sent Balrog is wrecking and disastrous. From the rubble climbs forth brave human survivors; keen to make amends and tell their story, keener still to exact vengeance on the remnant of the precursors who bought forth this folly.
TRACKLIST;
The Open Door
Some Context - Instrumental
Invisible Face - "...I climb up the stalk and plant the bean, the Universe is a machine, that has awoken from a dream..."
Wah Wah - "...I can feel the earth is moving, underneath my hoofed foots earthing. Fire protrudes from whence I'm pointing, fading every jewel..."
Road Train - "...Across the desert to the trees, Obliteration of the place, From the fire to the sea, Nonagon Infinity is coming!"
Gamma Knife - "...Milk and Honey for my body, come on through the door, see; It's your unborn self..."
People-Vultures -"...People Vultures, God approaches, final hearing, disappearing, tainted voodoo, headless guru, final head-spin, what else have I got left to spew down?"
Some Context |redux| - Instrumental
The Battle Of Gods
The Reticent Raconteur - "...Every time I think of the poor lot I recall, the fear upon their faces and the doomed fate of them all. I saw Death become of Light, and Life become of Fire..."
The Lord of Lightning - "...Floating Fire, Golden Wire, Silver Trails, Flashing Spire... ...And from the Lord's electric snare, one goes in His electric chair... ...Then the figure sprung up and at once it caught alight, and the creature known as Balrog was born that very night..."
I'm In Your Mind - "...Everybody's lazy 'cause they're fried, 'cause everybody's sucking on fluoride, when I'm in your mind, then I'm in your mind..."
I'm Not In Your Mind - Instrumental
Cellophane - "...You can colour everything you see, it's so strange..."
I'm In Your Mind Fuzz - "...And everybody's filing into line, 'cause everybody's sucking on fluoride, when I'm in your mind..."
The Balrog - "...You caused a massive rift, you made the atom split, and it came screaming through, here to bite the head off you!"
Trapdoor - "...And everybody goes to great lengths, for sure, to hide themselves away, and keep the beast at bay..."
The Great Chain Of Being - "...I usurp the precious stones, I have come to take the throne, I transcend the natural flesh, I will lay your God to rest..."
Floating Fire - "...Vehement Lightning quake, Head begins to ache, Lord has thunder snake, Balrog he will break... ...Lord of lightning safe, pulls a golden stake and launches into space, and mutters to the beast one word... Lightning!"
The Acrid Corpse - "...Leaving us, not without a final clap of light, the Lightning Lord escapes as day fades into moonless night..."
The Rats Of Mars
Planet B - "...Snowflakes blanket old deserts, outskirts disperse, earth is a blank verse, last hearse, dry nurse... Open your eyes and see, there is no Planet B.."
Mars For The Rich - "...Mars for the privileged, Earth for the poor, Mars terraforming slowly, Earth has been deformed..."
Organ Farmer - "...Farm colossal, wake the fossil, in the fields of beef!"
Superbug - "Superbug in my blood..."
Venusian 1 - "...Oh, we're going to the second planet from the sun, oh, our ship can deliver us from our ruin..."
Perihelion - "...Solar mountain comes on the perihelion, no rerouting only countin' till we're done, Shoutin' sins until we're in the sun..."
Venusian 2 - "In the lap of the gods, the last one did explode, in a blaze all fiery. I sit in the cockpit, it may be a sinking ship, but fortune favours bravery..."
Self Immolate - "I have gone insane-o, I lust for volcano, be with molten lava, give me my nirvana..."
Hell - "Here I was thinking I'd die, I see a thousand flies and wings and tails and spines. Nausea-less, resoluteness near the entrance, Satan points me to the Rats Nest..."

Book 3 - Microtonal Hellscape and Han Tyumi's Vomitverse
(7.41gb, 1:07:50 runtime, mainly FMB/MotU/Gumboot content)
CONCEPT;
The vast bulk of humanity is dead, dying, or somewhere between. The Earth is ruined beyond repair, a blasted wasteland where nothing will grow, and nothing can survive. Hear now tales of the poor souls who are last to call this place home. As the final drips of humanity fall from the tap, one last soul remains behind, only to finally take his place in the Digital Black at a cost beyond belief; The Universe itself.
TRACKLIST;
Microtonal Hellscape
Greenhouse Heat Death - "...My house is fried, all life has died, My house was blue, beautiful too..."
Flying Microtonal Banana - Instrumental - Dawn on an empty planet
Rattlesnake - "...I'm the serpent, Devil's servant, time to meet your end..."
Melting - "...Conflagrated and cremated when the world is consummated, devastated populated world of isolated mortal folk..."
Open Water - "...The Kraken's got the best of me this time..."
Sleep Drifter - "...Please no-one wake me, when I'm sleep drifting..."
Barefoot Desert -"...Never think ahead, unprepared, barefoot desert, come on in if you dare to my capsule of stress."
Han Tyumi's Vomitverse
Welcome to an Altered Future - "...Augmented entities, Unremembered God, the world fades to black...digital black. Welcome to an Altered Future."
Digital Black - "...I am the word of the last human, illusion, confusion, last human..."
Han Tyumi The Confused Cyborg - "...Born, if you may call it that, in a world that is dense and black. Created without a desire to draw breath. Without a desire to have being. Without a yearning of just to be. I'd like my desire back, my life back, my soul back, my humanity... ...I am bereft of two human things, two things that a cyborg can never do, two things that I strive for, two things between myself and mankind; Death, and to Vomit..."
Soy Protein Munt Machine - "So I built a machine, a Human machine, I made it with steel and soy protein. Born from a test tube, and into a vat, to live and to heave, and to die, just like that."
Robot Stop - "...My body works I know, It's just the same I know, my only difference is robot influence... Upload me to the robot brain, I'm the drudge that goes again and again..."
Big Fig Wasp - "...Did your God know insects grow in my pome...?"
Vomit Coffin - "...So I took over my creation, the spew coated protein, I plugged myself in and became one with machine..."
Murder of the Universe - "The spatter becomes a spray, and the spray becomes a stream... ...Inside my body the pressure is too great, and like some ancient geyser I erupt... ...Vomit bomb; chunky shrapnel tears through everything around me; I am vomit vomiting, I grow and disperse... ...I integrate. I am double, triple, I am ten times the size... ...I am a noxious soup filling valleys with vomit-torrents. Castles Crumble in landslides and I munch the rubble... ...Ten thousand times bigger, I seep into power sockets and travel along the wires at the speed of light across vast electric networks.... ...One million; I am supercharged flaming puke storming every cell, molecule and atom I can find - I am cancer... ...One billion, I am Saturn's rings, I am Jupiter's storms... ...One Trillion. The Stars are my cells, racing faster outwards, upwards, downwars, inwards... ...I shoot arrows of time in all directions... ...Nonillion, the Cosmic Microtone background becomes transparent; like rising damp, munt soaks into the walls of the cosmos and it topples like soggy bread. I am dark energy accelerating, Multiverse entanglement, I am time. Centillion, time is sick, critical density, contraction, singularity, everything and nothing, life and death....Murder of the Universe."
Doom City - "...Spark in firmament, Doom City sky opens up. He disorients everyone's lives with his breath; Charged with particles, Doom City air rips me up..."
Nuclear Fusion - "...Ocean like a moat fortification, separating me from restoration, my spirit leaves my body in frustration, flying through the world in radiation. The devils inside all the detail..."

Book 4 - Crumbling Castles, Dream-escapes, and the Fall of Polygondwanaland
(8.77gb, 1:19:13 runtime, mainly Poly/Quarters/Gumboot content)
CONCEPT;
In a land at the end of time, the remnant of a remnant cling to life, only for their bastion to be taken under by the vomitwave as Han Tyumi's destruction reaches even here. As the Castle Crumbles, the pilgrims flee, down The River into the dream, to arrive at Polygondwanaland; A place of power and mystery. Plots thicken, conspiracies abound, and a new hero emerges, only to be cast down as the inevitable machinations of Han Tyumi creep into the land beyond.
TRACKLIST;
Crumbling Castles
Crumbling Castle - "Meet me, glassy eyed, blind and divine. Hold down the the fort on the coastline. The castle is a pimple on the face of our orb, A humble spot for clues to drop if you eavesdrop. I see through the bricks, to the see, crumbling castle. Waters' rising up, thick and green, crumbling castle. Inching closer each century, crumbling castle. Are we safe in our citadel..."
Polygondwanaland - "...We're gonna get there, we don't need a whereabouts. We're gonna get there, follow where the river runs.. We're gonna get there, Polygondwanaland..."
Castle in the Air |intro| - "The River opened her mouth and spat into a vast sea, larger and bluer than a cloudless sky. Muscular, prodigious, immortal. But our vessel was invulnerable; It was well built. The boat rocked me to sleep and I floated through a deep dream - smooth sailing through the castle in the air..."
The Dream-escape
The River - "...Once you're where I led, it will be clear what I have said. Float without a home; The River flows like another long road. I can't believe it, it is frozen. It's not the first time, I had noticed. She will deliver, I am floating, trust in the river I had floated down..."
Muddy Water - "...Give me over to the River, my place that loves me - Gum leaves and tea trees, the river is immortal. I'm parched, I'll cark, the salty spray arrests..."
Sleeping In - "...I know within my body, I need to locate the switch hidden in me which will turn me off..."
Last Oasis - "...Dreamin' takes my mind away, it suffocates my brain airwaves. Optical illusion, sheet of water, heat perfusion, search the corners... ...the last oasis is like a flag beating in the wind. The world has wasted and the squandered lands are companionless. The last oasis shines a beacon like a lighthouse over lonely countries of death, like a black sea..."
Lonely Steel Sheet Flyer - "....My lonely wings are ready to fly, the ocean is breathing between you and I, my lonely wings don't make it right, wrapped in a steel sheet, and ready to fly..."
The Fall of Polygondwanaland
Castle in the Air |outro| - "...Could it be faithful? It couldn't seem more real. As I opened my eyes the dream decolourised until it was obscured, and the harsh reality hit me like salty water..."
Deserted Dunes Welcome Weary Feet - "Deserted dunes welcome weary feet... ...Nervous natives watch pompous pilgrims, foreign nature, Polygondwanaland...
Inner Cell - "Anemic rule, now hear me say our time has come, transcending us above the one, to ego death. For now, he sits inside the fire, oblivious that we will keep Him in the spire, have found resolve and our own crimes to commit in cold blood, as he did his...."
Loyalty - "...This is a test, I am Lord, fear my wrath. This is a test, I am Lord, I am death..."
Horology - "...Just like that the plot was crushed, brushed away without a thought. Some were found alive though, left to roam without their skin... One did make a pilgrimage in search of a family evaporated in the dark, stolen by the despot. A journey made all the worse having had his eyes gouged; he left without the gift of sight to face his true destroyer... ...Sit down weary traveler, I am that what you seek..."
Tetrachromacy - "...The story man was glassy-eyed. He told me about the power lines, and in subarctic caribou eyes, the metal wires burst into life..."
Searching - "Doctor please, I'll do anything, Alter me, let me see, give me more. I want to see the world differently..."
The Fourth Colour -"I believe the hyperbole, I see the fourth colour. I am born again, I see the light, it's in my face. I am analyzing information now that I am a God..."
Superposition - "Superposition, real world wisdom, everything is moving to the beauty of this system. Total question; fearless reason. We; One; I: Many: Superposition..."
All Is Known - "Burn their meat, sweep the streets, bind their hands unto their feet and digitize, cut the eyes from the King and augment to the fourth cone...All is known..."
|Fourth Colour Redux| - Instrumental - Han Tyumi says Hello.

Book 5 - The Altered Plan of the Consciousness Can
(9.56gb, 1:26:34 runtime, mainly Sketches/FFF/Gumboot content)
CONCEPT;
Cyboogie. Han Tyumi. Who am I? Am I alive? Was it all a dream? Passing on the memory to the only humans remaining, The Reticent Raconteur and The Tetrochromat, the Vomitverse plans are unveiled, before Han-Boogie begins lamentations of the Old World, calling out the Failures in an effort to prevent them repeating in his Altered Plan. But intrusive thoughts keep calling - is this real, real? How much of what has transpired has been by his own hand? And the power of the Nonagon Infinity makes him wonder if it's all about to come back around again...
TRACKLIST;
The Altered Plan of the Consciousness Can
Cyboogie - "...Cyboogie, lump in his throat, palpitations and nausea ensue, Cyboogie's chorophobia, terminal error vascular tissue. So Cyboogie's fishing for fishies, Red-bellied trout in a binary brook. How is it that he is depressed? The humans have pierced through his cheek with a hook..."
Boogieman Sam - "...Causing mayhem, cause he's Boogieman Sam..."
Down The Sink - "...Down the sink, back and forth, follow the stream, the city is bleak forget all your dreams. Down you'll go..."
Sketches Pt1 - Intrumental
Countdown - "...When it all falls away, clothes start to fray, buildings decay, rabble remain. Where they were green, sterility. Humanity, staring at me..."
D-Day - "...11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1..."
Tezeta - "If I've been insane my whole life, well now I've changed into something that see's. I love the feeling, shape shifting ceiling; my mental projection is pink... ...Everything that lives and dies is a hologram, nothing is as real as that... ...Do you remember now? What? Yes I do? This; my Altered Plan..."
Cranes Planes Migraines - Instrumental
The Spider and Me -"Let me just introduce you to my friend, under a tree, spider and me..."
The Bird Song - "To a bird, what's a plane? A shiny flying elephant..."
Plastic Boogie -"...Fuck all of that plastic, wrapped up in my dinner. It's not fantastic, it's gonna come and kill us. It's gonna be massive. It's gonna be brutal; Death will come from plastic. Death will come from people..."
The Cruel Millenial - "...Can't relate face to face with modern day youth. Outdated, the post-millennial will get you..."
Real's Not Real - "...What in the world is going on, here? Your past is built upon your fear, and happy is what you'll never be. I'm afraid that you're lacking some free will, Your real's not real..."
This Thing - "...I hide my riches in embarrassing sheets that reek of suspicious happenings, 'Cause I'm a different person and that will make you sick; There's no stopping what this is..."
Acarine - "...Buried deep inside of me....Acarine..."
The Wheel - "...Shivering pilgrims climb the steeper path to the idealistic reaper. Destroying all that will keep us headed for a better thesis..."
Sketches Pt2 - Instrumental
Dusk to Dawn on Lygon St -"...Black lines bend round a cityscape while trailing off in the sunsets wake. I can foresee that dawn will bring the light, as the sun gives way to night..."
The Book - "God gave me a sign; he put it in my glass of wine. A great theophany, he told me every sinner had to die..."
A Journey to |s|hell - Instrumental
Rolling Stoned - Instrumental
You Can Be Your Silhouette - "...When all the ticking stops dead, you may find your time instead, and you can be your silhouette..."
Sketches Pt3 - Instrumental
Fishing For Fishies - "Oh your heart's a hook. Ego tied in knots, baiting fate. Don't do it, you ain't a god; Don't hurt salmon, carp, or cod... ...Fishing for fishies, don't make them feel happy, or me neither, I feel so sorry for fishies.... I have been fishing and I don't want to catch none, I've let them swum..."
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